Battery box cleanup and wiring

[Bimmerbill]

Good morning all!
What gauge battery wire should I use for the starting circuit? Any recommendations on battery lugs?
Also, I want to add power and ground buss since I only have the original one and its pretty corroded. How do I pick the correct buss? I see power bars, gang bus bars, and maxi bus on the Bluesea website.
The 4 bolt maxi bus can do 48V DC with 250A and has 5/16" studs. Is this enough for the starting circuit? I cant seem to find info, but it looks like the starter motors are 110A max.
I'd like to add a ground and power buss (maybe multiple busses once I get wiring sorted), with the fusing mentioned in this thread.
I have two starting batteries, 1 battery for the winch, and 2 house batteries. Not sure I'll put both house batteries back in since I will be removing the PO's power inverter. The existing wiring is a big mess, so I'm going to start with the starting circuit first, replace the cables, and go from there.
I'm watching Todd's thread with interest too, but figured I should make my own here.

Thanks!
Bill

[yorklyn]

Bill,
I'm still researching everything. I've been trying to "digest" Nigel Calders book "boatowners mechanical and electrical manual, lots of good info. Just picked up a hydraulic Battery terminal crimper from harbor freight which has got great reviews on this forum and alot of others. I had purchase (just a few months ago!) all new pre made cables but naturally I'm changing my original plan so I'm going to make up my own cables once I have every figured out and planned out.. I have been purchasing alot of wire and misc. electrical stuff from this place
http://www.genuinedealz.com/about/
their prices seem to be really good.
I pulled the original grounding bar out of the box and cleaned it up with a brass wire wheel. looked like new when I finished. It is very similar in size/thickness as the "large maxi bus" from blue sea.
I'm think im going to go with two starting batteries that can be combined as needed for emergency starts. I want to have accessible battery switches but only want to have to use them in a emergency. I dont want to have to flip them back and forth for charging etc. a stand alone generator battery and two 6volt house batteries with the ability / room to go to 4 if desired in the future. I plan on using isolators to prevent a dead battery from discharge a good one. and will have a 3 bank smart charger on the house and two starting batteries.
I do not want everything jammed into the battery box and have a few ideas on creating a protected panel area close to the batteries where I can have everything labeled, neat and pretty!!! no jumbled rat nest! I will keep you posted as I make a few decisions. need to figure everything out soon as my engines should be back in two weeks or so!

[Big D]

If you're going with a diode isolator instead of an ACR, don't cheap out. Find one that will correct for the natural voltage drop across the diodes, usually .7 volts across each one. This is important since a drop will affect how your battery will charge because the reg won't see the true battery voltage. This could lead to overcharging.

[Bimmerbill]

Thanks! I appreciate the info. Here is what I am starting with:



There is newer Ancor Marine Grade 4 AWG 4 battery cable. Is AWG 4 big enough for the starting circuit? It is what is in there, but I will replace it with something bigger if necessary since I don't want any issues with engine starting.

This is the isolator (I think, if I have my terminology correct). PO had 2 8D house batteries and an inverter. It's not a marine rated inverter, so I am pulling it out. Will wire in the house batteries later. Tho I am "enjoying" the engine room space for now!



If I remove the Crusader 50a fuse boxes and add 50A Bluesea terminal fuses, will this work OK? I want to minimize the number of connections the starting cables need if possible. Easier to troubleshoot and maintain.