Fuel line replacement, 10M International

[Bimmerbill]

Hello all!
My 1984 10M International has the original fuel lines and filters.
I would like to replace the old fuel line with A1 rated fuel line. My system has stainless steel braided lines that go to the engines from a shut off valve located just out of the bulkhead in the engine room. Are braided metal hoses required?
Any idea what size fuel line I need? Would like to put in a water seperator filter as well to replace the canister style filters.
What's the best practice for fuel lines? A1 fuel line, A1 fuel line fittings? Not sure I need metal covered hose leading up the the engine carbs or not.
Thanks!
Bill

[Big D]

If they are 454s, 1/2" lines should do. Don't run the lines bundled with wiring, surveyors will note it in their findings. Support and strap the lines often. If you don't have them at the tanks, install shut-off valves, and while you're there, replace the anti-siphon valves, they're cheap and will save you runability issues later. The only caution I have about braided lines is a red flag that I've seen on a couple of surveys. There is no way for a surveyor to tell what type of line is under the steel braid. A good surveyor may catch this and note it in his findings which could be something the insurance company might direct you to replace. You want steel lines from the pump to the carb. What kind of separators are you going with?

[Bimmerbill]

Thanks! Not sure what filters, but would like water separating ones that I can drain, or just replace the filters a few times a season if they are cheap enough. Any suggestions?

There is braided line from the fuel pumps to the carbs and they look to be in good shape. Will replace the Quadrajet carb filter while I have everything pretty much torn apart.

Thanks for the tip about the anti siphon valves. Will take a look when I'm under there next.

Yes, 454's, Crusader 350s. I have lots of rust to clean up too. The furniture mounting holes on the engine hatches were punched all they way through and let water in there. I rebuilt one hatch, gotta fix the other shortly.

[Big D]

If you use ethenol or have reason to believe you'll have a lot of water in your fuel, use the Racors. They have a spin-on element when time for replacement but also have a drain plug to drain off water periodically without removing the filter. I don't have to worry about ethenol but they are the ones I'm using. I just think they are a better filter than your typical spin-on.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKE ... C-32&Wtky=

[P-Dogg]

I'm in the process of install separating filters myself. I went with Sierra.

http://www.boatersland.com/sie18-7951.html

This happens to be 1/4", but they come in 3/8" too, and maybe larger. Go to the Sierra website and look at their catalog, then google the part number that you come up with to find a supplier. For inboard gas, you need the aluminum bowl. If you are really into the water separating thing, you can get switches that screw into one of the bowl drains. It senses when water is present in the bowl, and turns on a light at the location of your choice. I believe that it is a Racor product.

In a related matter, if anyone knows of a drag pointer vacuum gauge RATED FOR GASOLINE SERVICE, please let me know. All the ones that I can find are rated for diesel. If you don't have a vacuum gauge on your filter, how are you supposed to know (before the engine shuts down), that you have filter issues?

See also:

http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/fuel.html

http://archive.org/stream/gov.law.abyc. ... 3_djvu.txt

[Big D]

Most analog fuel vacuum gauges for gasoline applications lack the resolution needed to warn of a pending issue. You really only need to focus on around 2 - 2.5 in.Hg. Anything above that and you start running the risk of vapour lock. This is why we use a digital one because it is way more accurate. Mercury sells them to their technicians. Don't know if available to the general public but there should be other makes out there.

[Bimmerbill]

Thanks for the help gentlemen!

I'm looking to keep things simple so no electronic sensors for me. Dropping too much $ on the boat this year so plan to do the important safety related items (fuel lines, add 2nd blower, bilge pumps) and 1 engine risers/elbows.

Got both engines stripped down to the manifolds for inspection. Will address rust issues with a couple POR-15 kits and Crusader Blue paint.

Thanks again!

[P-Dogg]

I'm in the process of installing separating filters myself. I went with Sierra.

...because there are duplicate ports are on the left and right side of the unit. The Racor enters through either side, and exits the front. Really? The Sierra units have an in and out on each side. This means that you can splice them into a bulkhead that the fuel line already runs on pretty easily and neatly, either left to right or right to left. You can also enter and exit the same side, which can come in handy.

[Big D]

.....The Racor enters through either side, and exits the front. Really?....

Not all of them. Depends on which one you get, there are different configurations with I think from 2 to 5 ports.

[Bimmerbill]

OK, here is what I have installed:


There is copper hard-line from the tank to the original canister style filters.

Not sure which fitting is the anti siphon valve.

Is the copper tubing OK to keep there? It's lasted since 1984 and I see no signs of leaks. Figured I'd clean it up a bit and spray with anti-corrosion spray. Then replace the fuel filter and hose forward to fuel pump.

When you say 1/2 inch line, is that OD or ID? The copper hard-line is much smaller than that.

Thanks again!

[Big D]

Nothing wrong with keeping the copper. If you do, its ID would have been considered by the OEM to suit the engine requirements. There is no way to tell that you have functioning anti siphon valves. The only way to ensure you do is remove the hardware and inspect. I've seen the guts removed by owners due to problems so for safety's sake, do yourself a favour and inspect. Even if you do find them intact, considering you have to re and re the hardware anyway, buy a new set so you don't have to worry about them later. They are inexpensive.