Need Help with a potential Trojan purchase

[Jeremy72]

Hi Guys

Just joined the group because I am looking at picking up a 30FT Trojan.
I currently own a wooden ChrisCraft that sadly hit by a tornado.
We pulled it out to repair the swim platform and found major hull issues, very sad day yesterday.
It is a bit beyond saving however I have found a Trojan that i can save.

I believe it to be a 74 or 74 30ft it has twin Ford 225 hp Mercruisers it has a flybridge. Can anyone tell me what model it is?
I here there is potential issues of the upper structure collapsing through the deck. What signs can I look for that this may happen?
I will be doing a full inspection on Sunday, and I know ChrisCrafts inside and out but Trojans are new to me.

[prowlersfish]

Hi Guys
I believe it to be a 74 or 74 30ft it has twin Ford 225 hp Mercruisers it has a flybridge. Can anyone tell me what model it is?
I here there is potential issues of the upper structure collapsing through the deck. What signs can I look for that this may happen?
.

It be looks to a F 30 SEA RAIDER , Glass hull wood top sides . Have not heard of issues of the upper structure collapsing through the deck , But look for wood rot of the structure like you would on any boat .

Welcome to the Trojan forums

[Jeremy72]

Thank you

[drjohn71a]

Congrats on your "new" Sea Raider! I have been restoring one like yours, but without the fly bridge. These are wonderful boats for cruising and handling. Just took a young couple out for a weekend and they loved the stable, heavy feel of the hull, and were surprised by its nimble handling.

From what I've run into, the main wood supports are very strong oak or teak, but the fore deck seems to be a plywood withe maybe 3/8 - 1/2" ply teak panels, "stapled" to the solid supports. Mine was stored under cover most of it's life. Other than the ply teak, the rest is heavily built. At worst, I guess you could bond ply atop what's there.

I just stripped, lightly sanded and varnished the aft half and am now starting the fore deck - while in the water...
I put a new, triangular, 32 gal water tank and all new water lines, tore out the old head an installed a C-Head, composting toilet which has been a great improvement and looks good to boot.

I cut out the small fridge opening clear down to the floor and widened the opening to accept a larger, Sears 110 V fridge. That brand was the narrowest I could find.

I have a way to go, but am certain you'll like this model. The cushions are very comfortable to sleep on, the large windows allow a great view, lots of air flow. I took out the old a/c unit and strapped a De Longhi 11,000 BtU,portable to the fore end of the galley, blowing back, with two air ducts thru a Starboard panel in the Port window.

Anyway, it's been such a fun, easy handling boat! I think you'll enjoy it. The opening windshields are wonderful on hot summer days. John

BTW, could you please post the dinette table measurements? Mine had no table.

[drjohn71a]

To more directly answer your questions... The main cabin supports are heavy, the deck sheathing is thinner teak ply, but non supporting.

Water damage will show up where the deck meets the cabin, where the combing meets the deck, and some have had to replace the engine support stringers. These are fairly easy to replace in this model due to wide open, easy engine access. Take an ice pick and probe where a horizontal wood meets vertical structures.

The fiberglass hulls are thick and heavy, with ample gelcoat which allows many polishings.

Sitting out for years in the weather is hard on the wooden decks. Check where water would pool up and stand with an ice pick. Some damage isn't a deal killer if you can fix it on your own. Good luck!

[drjohn71a]

Also, the swim platform under support struts are teak and abrade heavily from the prop wash. Don't be too alarmed at their narrowing, but a good point for price dropping.

[drjohn71a]

To eval foredeck, lie on fore berth to visualize the teak cross supports. Try probing the corners and ply junctions where water would stand above. A soft deck could mainly be weak plywood, which is pretty easy to replace. If the curved teak cross supports are rotted, that's a big job to fix.

[drjohn71a]

Also, where the windshield corner arises from the cabin top is susceptible to rot, but mainly limiting to the quarter round wood trim piece that forms the corner, I've fixed mine with white epoxy putty. However, if the main, flat wood windshield risers are rotted, they'd need replacement since they support the fly bridge.

The long cabin top and cockpit side cowlings are shaped plywood with vinyl stretched over. Like the ply teak deck covering, this is not tough to replace with new plywood and you could use epoxy coating and glassing in lieu of the vinyl. My vinyl is pretty good with many repair spots of some kind of white sealer, so an area of vinyl damage does not necessitate total replacement.

In addition, the wooden spray guards down by the waterline, attached to the fiberglass hull can rot and bumps can separate the SS trim band from these as well as the swim deck. White epoxy putty and toothpicks into the loose screw holes easily repaired this. Black epoxy or black wood filler repaired the SS trim gaps on the swim platform. When those areas hit the dock, it springs the metal trim away, leaving a huge gap which is mainly due to the trauma, minimally due to rot.

[Jeremy72]

Great info guys. I will be doing a ful inspection today and I hope it is all solid.

[Jeremy72]

The bulk head behind the helm is rotten and the corners of the hardtop/flybridge floor are soft. Plus where the side meet the deck at the rear of the cabin have have a rotten piece about a 6 inch square piece. All looks fairly easy to fix With some plywood and A few mahogany pieces. The front deck are all very solid surprisingly enough.

Looks like I will be saving this boat from the wreckers.

Thank you for your help.

[drjohn71a]

Congrats, Jeremy. I just spent three days/ nite's on the lake with one of my sons. The boat has an engaging demeanor. Ppl just love to plug along at hull speed or slow cruise. Open cabin is very livable w/o claustrophobia.

[drjohn71a]

They put some 3/4-1" little aluminum vents in that cabin side area on my boat as well as inside the lower helm window area to help dissipate the moisture build up.

[pickelbike]

Hi guys: I'm a newbee to boating. I just bought a 73 F30 this weekend for a great price "as is". This is some great advice and I wil be looking at all these spots this weekend. Thanks again.

[drjohn71a]

Welcome, pickle,

While there may be damage to these wooden decked models, the hulls are very heavy and well built, and the use of plywood and standard stock makes it fairly straight forward to repair soft spots. Esp with the epoxies available now.

I think you'll enjoy the performance and feel of the 8100 lb hull w/ two V8's and semi displacement hull.

Congrats! John

[drjohn71a]

Btw, I'm looking for measurements of the dinette table on an F30 since mine had no table.