what wax and cleaner to buff boat?

[bad440cuda]

the boat i just purchased end of last year has not been buffed out or really cleaned in a few years,pretty much just sat, was going to have painted but i would like to try and give buffing it a shot first, what cleaner and buffing cleaners and waxs work best for best result and ease, trying to get it to shine again it really isnt bad the whiles just dull not much chalky spots at all, but with redoing the bottom paint it would look nice with a shine to with it any help would be greatly appreciated

[bjanakos]

I picked up a vessel in a similar condition as yours... It was not well taken care of the last few years and then it sat for 18 months. I will be buffing out mine as soon as the weather breaks, and on a scale of 1-10 I would say that my gel coat is a -4....

I have never done this on a Trojan before, but this is what I did on my old slick craft and got he back looking at least decent. I will take the same approach with my Trojan.

I started with the Meguires Marine restoration kit
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/f ... ion-system


And a Milwaukee Rotary Buffer.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5460-6- ... B00002247Y


I started with an acid bath of 25% Muriatic acid to water. Basically, wipe on/wipe off, then a good rinsing with a hose. When you wipe it on, you want it to sit for a few minutes. Do this before you paint the bottom.

I supplemented the Meguires kit with with #92 which is their most aggressive rubbing compound using a wool pad. I went over the hull 2 times and the top sides needed at least 3, probably could have used 4 passes. I then moved on to the #49 with a yellow pad once all the way around twice and worked my way up to the polishing compound.

For the finish, I went with Klasse All-in-One and a black pad . It's not a wax, it's an acrylic sealant and it does very well with only 1 application a season. In the following years, I just needed to go over it with a good washing and apply the Klasse.

[prowlersfish]

I have very good luck with 3M Marine Restorer and Wax and 3M Marine Cleaner and Wax . The restorer is a little more aggressive and would work better on bad areas .


3M Marine Cleaner and Wax
Dual action restorer & wax protector lets you finish the job faster. For the removal of light oxidation and rust plus the treatment of scratches and exhaust stains, this one step process boat wax is formulated using a unique blend of rubbing compound and waxes for all fiberglass and gelcoat repairs. Simultaneously, it leaves behind a hard coat of wax that protects the finish from further oxidation. Using 3Mâ„¢ Marine Fiberglass Cleaner and Wax combines two steps in one - saving you time and money.

3M Marine Restorer and Wax
Dual action restorer & wax protector lets you finish the job faster. For the removal of medium / heavy oxidation and rust plus the treatment of scratches and exhaust stains, this one step process boat wax is formulated using a unique blend of rubbing compound and waxes for all fiberglass and gel coat repairs. Simultaneously, it leaves behind a hard coat of wax that protects the finish from further oxidation. Using 3Mâ„¢ Marine Fiberglass Restorer and Wax combines two steps in one - saving you time and money.

Like I said I have had very good luck with them , I use a orbital buffer most of the time . A high speed buffer works well too but you have to be careful with them .

Like what brands of oil are best you may get many opinions on what is best

[prowlersfish]

I started with an acid bath of 25% Muriatic acid to water. Basically, wipe on/wipe off, then a good rinsing with a hose. When you wipe it on, you want it to sit for a few minutes. Do this before you paint the bottom.

.

25% Muriatic acid ? Unless the boats been sunk and has growth on the sides ,I would not even think about it . Muriatic acid is bad stull . But if for some reason you what to do it make sure you wear protective gear and a respirator . I heard of people using it on the bottoms But never on the sides . Again I would not use it for this

Edit :
Good Eye protection !!!!!!!!!!! ( good idea with buffer too )

[Happy Ours]

I agree with Prowler 100% 3M Restorer and Wax a great product, I used this on my F26 the hull was in terrible shape really dull and chalky came up fantastic, as for washing a simple solution of dish soap and water then hose off with fresh water let dry and buff with 3M Restorer and Wax, this job does not need to be complicated just a little time comsuming but there is alot of satisfaction when you see the results, when I apply the 3M I put it on a rag wipe it on the boat then start to buff it, if you put the 3M on the buffer when you turn on the buffer the Restorer will fly all over the place, also work in small areas 3 ft by 3 ft, I will be using this on my F32 this spring I may just use the Cleaner and Wax as the hull is not in bad shape at all, not like the F26 but if I need to I will use the Restorer and Wax, I keep both on hand.

Craig

[bjanakos]

I started with an acid bath of 25% Muriatic acid to water. Basically, wipe on/wipe off, then a good rinsing with a hose. When you wipe it on, you want it to sit for a few minutes. Do this before you paint the bottom.

.

25% Muriatic acid ? Unless the boats been sunk and has growth on the sides ,I would not even think about it . Muriatic acid is bad stull . But if for some reason you what to do it make sure you wear protective gear and a respirator . I heard of people using it on the bottoms But never on the sides . Again I would not use it for this

No need to freak out. Muriatic acid is the base compound in most hull cleaners, tub cleansers, toilet bowl cleaners, CLR, swimming pool treatments, and even used to make table salt. See a pattern here? it's a decalcifyer. it is a common practice in just about every boat yard for surface preparation as it easily removes scum lines, kills organics, removes old wax, and it's safe (when properly handled) on gel, aluminum, steel, and bronze. You can try Starbrite if you like paying $50 a gallon for 10:1 dilution and use 3 times as much. There is plenty of info on line; do your due diligence.

Regardless, you want to get the calcification and oxidation off BEFORE you start compounding. Whatever method you use, its your choice. These are hard and tiny objects and if you don't remove them first, you will be buffing them INTO the gel and you will either end up compounding over and over to get a shine, or be left with swirls. If you were going to paint, you would have to do this anyway.

[prowlersfish]

Never heard of being used on hull sides before compounding and waxing as most don't have growth .And I have been around boat yards for a long dam time . The stuff has it place for sure ,but I see no need to use it on hulls sides . To many risks with no benefits . A good wash is all you need before compounding and wax in most cases . If there is growth its a different story

Unless you fully understand what product will do and what the dangers are you should stay clear . And always read the MSDS .

I will just have to strongly disagree with you on this.

[jhalb]

My old boat repair guy sprayed my hull sides down with muriatic acid to get the Mississippi slime off. That was 10 years ago before I had a boat with the bottom painted. Have not used myself but the slime melted off.

[prowlersfish]

Maybe its fresh water thing , on the sides?? Bottom (water line down) I can see it .

[44Ydnar88]

I second the 3m restorer and wax, I had great results, my only complaint is after essentially bleaching and scrubbing the hull and top sides was the tannish color of the wax made the non skid look super white making everything else appear off white.. This product after a good scrub with a scotch brite pad worked great