1975 f26 5.7 and velvet drive

[32pacemaker]

the engine is in and bolted down I had to drop the stringer down one inch with a router here is the port side you can see how the engine is offset to the port here is the top view with tight deck clearance and a picture of the transmission

[aaronbocknek]

NICE!!! REALLY NICE!

[Paul]

Looks great, I really like the idea of fuel injection as opposed to a Q-Jet. As for the engine offset, I installed mine aligned with the center line of the boat and experience no ill effects of prop walk. I can let go of the wheel in calm water and the boat will track as straight as can be.

[32pacemaker]

Hi Paul, i aligned the engine to the prop shaft and that's where it ended up are you running a left hand engine too. My boat is a very early F26 it's production number is ______15 so that had to be in the first month or two of production i still have a lot of work to do I'm going to use the the j1939 buss to 2000 NEMA to my Lowrance for engine data i have to figure out a low silhouette flame arrestor so lots to do .

[mikeandanne]

That is some nice looking equipment you have there...you won't regret putting that data backbone in there, easy to add onto....Mike

[Paul]

i have to figure out a low silhouette flame arrestor so lots to do .

My boat originally had a 305 with very little clearance for the flame arrestor. When I install the 350 with a slightly taller flame arrestor, I ended up with an interference issue with the hatch. Even though my floor and hatch are fiberglass, the fix that I chose may also work for you. I used a router to clear a circular area above the flame arrestor in the underside of the hatch to a depth of about half the thickness of the hatch. I then sealed it up with a light roving and West System epoxy resin. Problem solved and hatch still strong.

Hope this helps.

[32pacemaker]

thought before i put the starboard manifold on i would install a sea strainer. from the top of deck surface to the heat exchanger cap there is about 3/4 inch i will have to do some routering on the bottom of the hatch for some clearance.

[MattSC]

Looking good! I ended up installing an access cover on the hatch over my flame arrestor to give me a little extra clearance.

[32pacemaker]

starting with the original dash replaced my HDS7 lowrance gen 1 with a HDS9 gen 3 but first had to clear some space and now it looks like this and yes I had to remove the shift lever and straighten the lever. and on the engine install I had to remove the port reinforcement beam and relocate at a angle and added a reinforcement beam to the front of the engine hatch, the top hose to heat exchanger is the only routering that had to be done to the hatch .

[prowlersfish]

Nice !

[MattSC]

Really nice modification. Better than new

[32pacemaker]

thanks Matt, I been working hard on it. I ordered my DJX prop I'm going to try a 14x11 with a #5 cup it takes six weeks to get a prop from Michigan i'll let you know how it works out

[Dante D]

Your not fooling around there are you ? very nice equipment, looks like you spent some monies there ,I like when people restore an older boat /instead of buying new. thats what I would do if I had any money,,lol One of the things on MY bucket list is to someday have a boat(hopefully a Trojan) with retrofit injected engines, or diesel, and to just have to do normal maintenance , instead of the constant battle of keeping it running on a budget. But I have a feeling thats like most of us ..

[MattSC]

thanks Matt, I been working hard on it. I ordered my DJX prop I'm going to try a 14x11 with a #5 cup it takes six weeks to get a prop from Michigan i'll let you know how it works out

Looking forward to hearing how it works out for you. I also have a DJX prop and am really happy with it, though I'm at 14x10 with cup. You must really be excited to get her back on the water. Best of luck