Not getting fire

jwhalen · Post by **jwhalen** » Mon May 25, 2015 3:45 pm

Hopefully can get some ideas where to start. I have a 1976 Chyrsler 318 in my F26. It ran on Friday. Then would not start. Later that evening it started. Today went down to go out and it would not start. I thought it might be the coil so I replaced and tested. Had power at the coil level. Both coils seemed to work fine. However was not getting power to plugs. Tried several plugs and even put the test light into the distributor cap with no luck. Changed the rotor and still no luck. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

john

mikeandanne · Post by **mikeandanne** » Mon May 25, 2015 4:38 pm

Have a look a this , lots of troubleshoot stuff here, hope this link works.....rv based but all this applies to your 318 especially if you still have the original ecu ....Mike

http://www.mediafire.com/view/qmwzwjgde ... nition.pdf

Flyboy · Post by **Flyboy** » Mon May 25, 2015 8:16 pm

2 questions, do you have electronic ignition? You said you have power to the coil, does current leave the coil.

jwhalen · Post by **jwhalen** » Mon May 25, 2015 9:37 pm

Flyboy wrote:2 questions, do you have electronic ignition? You said you have power to the coil, does current leave the coil.

Yes I have power on both the positive and negative side of the coil but I checked and do not have power coming out of the coil. After reading some online stuff and what mikeandanne sent, I am beginning to think I might need a new ECM.

Thoughts

Flyboy · Post by **Flyboy** » Mon May 25, 2015 10:27 pm

Do not know much about the 318 but it looks like it is heading that way. You might want to make sure the ground for the ECM is good.

Allen Sr · Post by **Allen Sr** » Tue May 26, 2015 6:02 am

I would check ALL of the ground connections first.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Tue May 26, 2015 8:39 am

with a Chrysler electronic control module. the 4 or 5 pin plug that plugs into it can get loose. It is supposed to have a screw in the middle holding it in, it has been my experience that many home and pro mechs leave the screw out. Pull the plug and make sure it is clean then reinsert making sure it is fully seated. if it fires. put a screw in it and forget about it. If no fire may be ecm. also the main wiring harness connecter on bundle of wires from engine to boat can get corroded, check and clean.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue May 26, 2015 11:09 am

Look at the ballast resistor also .

jwhalen · Post by **jwhalen** » Tue May 26, 2015 8:41 pm

Thanks. I have a new ECM and ballast coming tomorrow. Went down today, cleaned and checked all connections. Still no fire. Hoping it is the ECM but will know tomorrow. I really appreciate all the suggestions as the electrical part is my weakest.

jwhalen · Post by **jwhalen** » Wed May 27, 2015 12:28 pm

So replaced the ECM and the ballast and still no luck. Any other suggestions?

mikeandanne · Post by **mikeandanne** » Wed May 27, 2015 5:33 pm

I know this sounds simplistic but if you went thru all the troubleshooting info and still nothing...have you tried jiggling the shifter or is the engine turning over but not starting???

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Wed May 27, 2015 7:19 pm

++ on neutral safety switch and positioning of same at shift lever end. Happens to me all the time, I fuss then say now what. I wait a second and the light comes on to move the shifter while starter switch engaged. voom! Anyways hope that is it.

mikeandanne · Post by **mikeandanne** » Thu May 28, 2015 10:31 am

One more thing I just thought of, make sure the center carbon electrode in the distributor cap is making proper contact with the rotor....some manufacturers caps were defective in that spot....Mike

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