HULL CLEANERS/POLISHES
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foofer b
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1320
- Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:45 pm
- Location: Black Creek, Florida
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HULL CLEANERS/POLISHES
wHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO GET RID OF OLD OXIDIZED GELCOAT AND PUT A SHINE BACK ON MY HULL AND TOPSIDES. ALSO HAS ANYONE HAD ANY EXPERIENCE WITH PLOY PREP/POLY GLOW STUFF?
MY CURRENT FLEET
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF
One place to start is with 3M Marine rubbing compound /wax. You machine apply until the grit breaks down, let dry, and hand remove like a normal wax. I've buffed out afterwards with a lambswool bonnet.
If that doesn't work, then wet sanding and polishing is next, but a lot more work....
If that doesn't work, then wet sanding and polishing is next, but a lot more work....
Current Fleet:
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
Depending on how chalky it is here is what I have been doing.
1) Rub down with bleach and a brush (this removed any little black spots I had in the porous gel coat) for the mold. Theses were tiny, tiny specks but were there.
2) Heavy rubbing compound. (if your deck is like chalk)
I cannot remember what I am using but it is good and 1/2 the price of 3m. I got it from a supplier that sells only to detailing businesses and body shops. I think it was $50 per gallon. Also make sure to use a wool pad (velcro backed and have one spare handy) these can be cleaned perodicly by throwing them in the washing machine (do it when the wife is not looking). Most important ---get a proper buffing/ polisher with variable speed and lots of power. It was the best investment I made so far the little orbital car buffers dont have the poop to dig and will take 4x the time for the same result. The other must have is the variable speed. I start slow and keep the compound from flinging and work the area even then build up speed to where I need.
Here is the one I finally purchased.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200211674
3) Finishing Compound
Same as above but get a finishing pad for the buffer so you dont get as much build up. This makes it so I can see myself like a white mirror finish.
4) WAX - You can start another post on this one because there many many opinions on this one and I am not there yet.
Of course this is all opinion so take it as you wish, but it is what I finally settled on for the least labor approach with highest results.
Oh yeah and take it in little chunks at a time otherwise you wont be able to hold your arms up the next day.
1) Rub down with bleach and a brush (this removed any little black spots I had in the porous gel coat) for the mold. Theses were tiny, tiny specks but were there.
2) Heavy rubbing compound. (if your deck is like chalk)
I cannot remember what I am using but it is good and 1/2 the price of 3m. I got it from a supplier that sells only to detailing businesses and body shops. I think it was $50 per gallon. Also make sure to use a wool pad (velcro backed and have one spare handy) these can be cleaned perodicly by throwing them in the washing machine (do it when the wife is not looking). Most important ---get a proper buffing/ polisher with variable speed and lots of power. It was the best investment I made so far the little orbital car buffers dont have the poop to dig and will take 4x the time for the same result. The other must have is the variable speed. I start slow and keep the compound from flinging and work the area even then build up speed to where I need.
Here is the one I finally purchased.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200211674
3) Finishing Compound
Same as above but get a finishing pad for the buffer so you dont get as much build up. This makes it so I can see myself like a white mirror finish.
4) WAX - You can start another post on this one because there many many opinions on this one and I am not there yet.
Of course this is all opinion so take it as you wish, but it is what I finally settled on for the least labor approach with highest results.
Oh yeah and take it in little chunks at a time otherwise you wont be able to hold your arms up the next day.
MAC32 "Fingers crossed for Flotation"
Foofer,
First off you need to establish the condition of your gelcoat. How old is the boat? Has it been cut polished or wet sanded before? Gelcoat is quite thin depending on the make and age of boat and, what has been done to date. Regardless, it is a tough job and you may want to consider a professional detailer. I am a big fan of 3M products but I never use their polish and wax (called restorer and wax) on boats that require a more agressive approach, like what you are dealing with, because polish and wax are very differant from each other. Polish contains an abrasive which removes a layer of gelcoat needed to achieve a good shine. This is why it is important to know what has been done in the past on your boat. NEVER polish new or already glossy gelcoat!! Wax only! I find using a polish and wax on lightly oxidized gelcoat is fine but you should follow up with a wax coat as well to fill the gelcoat pores and add the all important UV protection. So, why not polish and than wax in the first place? Knowing how to apply polish and wax is also improtant. Polish is appled with a wheel at lower RPM than wax and can never be allowed to dry during the process or it will cake. Wax is buffed dry at higher RPM. Compounding is a more agressive method used on heavily oxidized gelcoat. Compound contains more abrasive materials which are needed to remove more gelcoat. (Hopefully not too much)If this dosn't get the job done wet sanding with 600-1500 grit will be needed, followed by polish than wax. The last resort is a paint job. Good luck.
First off you need to establish the condition of your gelcoat. How old is the boat? Has it been cut polished or wet sanded before? Gelcoat is quite thin depending on the make and age of boat and, what has been done to date. Regardless, it is a tough job and you may want to consider a professional detailer. I am a big fan of 3M products but I never use their polish and wax (called restorer and wax) on boats that require a more agressive approach, like what you are dealing with, because polish and wax are very differant from each other. Polish contains an abrasive which removes a layer of gelcoat needed to achieve a good shine. This is why it is important to know what has been done in the past on your boat. NEVER polish new or already glossy gelcoat!! Wax only! I find using a polish and wax on lightly oxidized gelcoat is fine but you should follow up with a wax coat as well to fill the gelcoat pores and add the all important UV protection. So, why not polish and than wax in the first place? Knowing how to apply polish and wax is also improtant. Polish is appled with a wheel at lower RPM than wax and can never be allowed to dry during the process or it will cake. Wax is buffed dry at higher RPM. Compounding is a more agressive method used on heavily oxidized gelcoat. Compound contains more abrasive materials which are needed to remove more gelcoat. (Hopefully not too much)If this dosn't get the job done wet sanding with 600-1500 grit will be needed, followed by polish than wax. The last resort is a paint job. Good luck.
poliglow
i have poliglow on my f32 right now. it has made a dull boat shine like new. i will continue to use it. i put it on a year ago and havent done anything to it.my boat is in freshwater and lives in a covered slip so i can only speak of my experience. i know that i was having a terrible time trying to keep bug droppings from staining my boat and with poliglow on it the droppings hose right off and no stains. its simple to apply and it doesnt take to long and i think it looks great. if you want to try it then try it, see what it looks like and if you dont like the way it looks take it off its not permenant and go with something else. its not that much money to buy and try. i know its a lot less labor intensive than other things. i'm happy with poliglow.
poliglow
have you been on the poliglow website there is a lot of info there. there is a prep that you use before the poliglow application, did not notice where you were from but it will need to be at least 55 degrees to apply. heres the link to there site http://www.poliglow-int.com/poliglow.phtml theres also a money back guarantee if you dont like it.