Teak Deck Refinish

[captainmaniac]

Cetol Light or Natural may give you the look you are after... This shot is Cetol Light with Cetol Gloss over top. The second one is a little fuzzy with the low light under the cover.

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There is a product I used years ago that I think also had a lighter finish (may be what the prev owner had on the decks) - Deks Olje. http://www.deksolje.com/ We used it on my father's 1969 28' Sea Skiff for a few years before switching to Cetol for ease of maintenance.

[RonW]

Hi Captainmaniac

That's beautiful and exactly the colour I want. Thanks so much.

And thanks to Jimbo and the other posts for putting me straight. Cetol it is.

Ron

[jimbo36]

Cetol Light or Natural may give you the look you are after... This shot is Cetol Light with Cetol Gloss over top. The second one is a little fuzzy with the low light under the cover.





There is a product I used years ago that I think also had a lighter finish (may be what the prev owner had on the decks) - Deks Olje. http://www.deksolje.com/ We used it on my father's 1969 28' Sea Skiff for a few years before switching to Cetol for ease of maintenance.

Nice work captianmaniac. Looks great. Ron, I cannot figure what else John would have used. You may remember when you and I were in my office at Bay Moorings I pulled up John's previous invoices from over the years and he had Cetol charged to his account regularly. ??? Yes, the Cetol Light is probably your best choice. I have never stripped teak with black chaulking so I am not sure about it. I plan on stripping the cockpit and bridge decks this spring on my F36 so I guess I am about to find out. I will be talking to my friend Kevin who is a professional restorer and will let you know what I find out. jimbo36

[captainmaniac]

For the decks on the '69 we used one of the standard Teak 2 part cleaners (acid / base) whenever needed, no other chemical strippers. We tried not to sand if we could avoid it, as we didn't want to cut through the planking, and sanding the caulk between the planks just gummed up the sandpaper in no time at all - and smushed the mess all over the teak (and into any open grain!). If we ever sanded, we used the 2 part system to clean up the mess afterwards. Re-caulking between the planks is a real pain.

Good luck. "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" -- especially when it comes to teak. Some love dark coloured teak, some love 'the wet look', some love the oiled / fresh natural look (like the snailboat photo), some like the dark grey and weathered look...

As I think has been said before - stay away from gloss for surfaces that will be under foot (slippery when wet), or add some kind of non-skid to them (which to me nullifies the whole idea of a gloss surface).

[1967 seavoyager]

The sickens Door & window looks purple in the can but comes out clear. I wanted something better than cetol natural. 1. it turned my teak brown. 2. Did not hold up well. Door & Window is night & day better & the natural color shows through.

[RonW]

I must be the only Trojan owner with teak decks that has never refinished teak before. I'll post my progress in case anyone is interested because I haven't seen any pictures of refinishing teak that has black caulking strips. The thought of disturbing the black caulking had made me nervous.
I didn't want to use chemical stripper because I did a small area on a previous boat and it did remove the black caulking strips. I was worried about the same thing with a heat gun.

Good news, application of the heat gun until the finish just bubbles yellow, allows the surface to be scraped bare without affecting the caulking. I started with a 2.5" scraper but found the 1.5" wide better. Trouble is that you can only do about 1.5" x 2" square at a time. Extremely tedious work but very satisfying results. The foredeck took 17 hours and each side deck was 10 hours. The side decks were nasty because there is very little room to get comfortable between the shrink wrap and the glass.

Just started sanding with 100 grit on an orbital sander.

The whole reason for doing this is to get rid of the grey..... not showroom, but much better. The close-up picture, shows the grey I am trying to get rid of on the right, and the sanded wood on the left.

As per all the advice (above) and am planning to use Cetol Marine Light.

Couldn't snowmobile all winter due to lack of snow and here I am refinishing the deck with snow predicted this Sunday (April 3).

Ron

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[K4282]

my aft deck is teak with the black caulk, I redid the caulk, sanded, 2 part cleaner and 4 coats cetol natural (I think the cetol light is too orangy) and 2 coats clear with non skid polymere, looks great.

[lawyerdave71]

Looking Good!!

[jimbo36]

Great work Ron. I am sure the end result will be awesome. Let me know if you head east this summer. I am in Belleville.

[captainmaniac]

Good to see one done right!

[dockedwages1]

If I could figure out how to resize pics I would post some of the deck refinish and other projects I've been working on.

[dockedwages1]

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Let me see if I can get this to work.

[dockedwages1]

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I think you may have seen these pics. Trying to get the ones I have of sanded wood.

[dockedwages1]

image.jpg

I think you may have seen these pics. Trying to get the ones I have of sanded wood.

[RonW]

Thanks for the pictures guys. The number of blue beer cups looks about right for this kind of work.

I like the look of Dockedwages deck, although I expect mine will come out lighter (which I like as well). It looks high gloss which I was told not to do since it will be too slippery...... or is that natural Cetol.

Also, what caulking should I use along the cabin-to-deck seam (as shown in Dockedwages deck pictures). Do I caulk to the bare wood (I assume) or after the Cetol (to which I wouldn't expect it to stick).

(April 5th and it was -10C last night..... launch is April 23)

Ron