Rode/chain splice
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Rode/chain splice
If you need to splice a rope to a chain you may find the helpful
http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/tips-u ... soc&dom=fb
http://www.boatingmag.com/how-to/tips-u ... soc&dom=fb
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77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

Re: Rode/chain splice
Excellent article Paul!
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
Re: Rode/chain splice
+1 Definitely worth the time to watch.Paul wrote:Excellent article Paul!
Growing old is inevitable,but growing up is optional
1984 F36 w/350 Crusaders 'Reel Class'
2011 Trojan Rendevous
Solomons Get Together 2011
Ocean City 2012,2013,2015
1984 F36 w/350 Crusaders 'Reel Class'
2011 Trojan Rendevous
Solomons Get Together 2011
Ocean City 2012,2013,2015
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Re: Rode/chain splice
So, I 'm new to electric windlasses.
My boat currently has an all chain rode, Maxwell windless, and as I've recently mentioned in a thread on this forum, I was missing the "clutch nut lever."
I was able to contact Maxwell's North American headquarters and purchase a new "Clutch Nut Lever" last week (Thanks everyone for the help, in particular Big D)
Prowler, what are your thoughts about an all anchor rode such as mine? I'm assuming from watching the short video on splicing you've just posted, that in my case, if I were to add a rope splice to the rode right at the end by the anchor itself, that I would be eliminating wear and tear on my windless supporting parts up front. Correct??
My boat currently has an all chain rode, Maxwell windless, and as I've recently mentioned in a thread on this forum, I was missing the "clutch nut lever."
I was able to contact Maxwell's North American headquarters and purchase a new "Clutch Nut Lever" last week (Thanks everyone for the help, in particular Big D)
Prowler, what are your thoughts about an all anchor rode such as mine? I'm assuming from watching the short video on splicing you've just posted, that in my case, if I were to add a rope splice to the rode right at the end by the anchor itself, that I would be eliminating wear and tear on my windless supporting parts up front. Correct??
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters
Re: Rode/chain splice
Thanks Paul, I'm sure that'll come in handy for a lot of folks. Easier than trying to figure it out from pictures
Rick, don't add rope, you don't need it. All chain rode is the best way to go unless weight is a concern.

Rick, don't add rope, you don't need it. All chain rode is the best way to go unless weight is a concern.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
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Re: Rode/chain splice
Thanks Paul not far from needing this. 

Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
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Re: Rode/chain splice
Okay, so in my case I won't be adding rope because I have an all chain rode.
But for those with a rope rode and a length of chain at the anchor end, the rope should be spliced according to the video's instructions.
Rick
But for those with a rope rode and a length of chain at the anchor end, the rope should be spliced according to the video's instructions.
Rick
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters
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Re: Rode/chain splice
rickalan35 wrote:Okay, so in my case I won't be adding rope because I have an all chain rode.
But for those with a rope rode and a length of chain at the anchor end, the rope should be spliced according to the video's instructions.
Rick
You will get all sorts of answers on this . Anything from I use all chain to no chain . I rarely used chain as my old windlass was rope only . I did have a section I added when I felt the need . I have gone to a rope/chain windlass . I now have just over 20 foot of chain and the rest is rope . I have heard one rule is to use a boat length of chain .
For holding power the more chain the better . BUT its a good idea to use a rope snuber with all chain to take the shock out when it gets tight . This takes load off the hardware and can help from jerking the anchor lose .
I believe most of us would be fine with a rope chain combo . And avoid cheap anchors
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

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Re: Rode/chain splice
Well, on that note. I have a difficult time with snubbers.
With the anchor down, I won't even begin to relate my adventures trying to get a decent snubber set ..... and forget those damn rubber snubbers - I can't get it done with them either. Tips would be appreciated.
With the anchor up, I use a carabiner attached to a length of 5/8 line. Once the anchor is up and in place on the bow roller, I slip the carabiner through the last link in the chain where it connects to the anchor. Then I tie off this 5/8 line tightly to the front bow chock. This takes up any forward and back stress weight that would normally impact the windless mechanism.......... or at least I hope it does.
With the anchor down, I won't even begin to relate my adventures trying to get a decent snubber set ..... and forget those damn rubber snubbers - I can't get it done with them either. Tips would be appreciated.
With the anchor up, I use a carabiner attached to a length of 5/8 line. Once the anchor is up and in place on the bow roller, I slip the carabiner through the last link in the chain where it connects to the anchor. Then I tie off this 5/8 line tightly to the front bow chock. This takes up any forward and back stress weight that would normally impact the windless mechanism.......... or at least I hope it does.
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters