Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

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Glenn&Angie
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Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by Glenn&Angie »

I am a new boat owner. I bought my 1976 Trojan 36f last year. Trying to figure so much out! I can only find 1 bilge pump which is in the front, if there is another one it's not working and it's not in sight. I think the steps in the salon going up come off "not sure" don't know how to take them off. Also I was told the bilge should have at least 2 drains under the boat, can't find them either! Any help would be appreciated!
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by larryeddington »

I have an 84 tri cab which is probably different than yours. I have 3 bilge pumps front, engine compartment, and at stern equipment area. The three are originally installed. There should be two drains (called garboard drain) that have a standard bronze square head plug screwed in. One in front and one at stern. Both my Trojans are that way.
Last edited by larryeddington on Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by prowlersfish »

I think most Trojans came with 2 pumps forward and aft at least my 2 did F36 and F30
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Glenn&Angie
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by Glenn&Angie »

I am pretty sure there are two, but I can't find the second one. Any help, or info on where to get this info would be great! I already bought a owners manual but it does not tell me where the second one is.
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by rickalan35 »

Hi Glenn and Angie,

Welcome to this forum and congrats on your recent purchase. Sure hope you get a lot of satisfaction running that Tri Cabin. My wife and I owned a 1974 tricabin for sixteen years. We sold her two years ago but bought another Trojan to take her place.

Now, regarding bilge pumps. Ours had only one. It was in the front as you say, which is the lowest part of the hull when sitting in the water. The bilge water runs to that point. There are scupper (limber) holes at key points to ensure that the water can flow. I used to routinely check them to make sure they were clear.

Regarding the steps from the forward cabin back up to the salon - our boat had two tiny brass hook and eye fasteners screwed into each of the stringers, at either end of the top step.

Unfasten these hooks and the steps pop right out. To actually do it, undo the two fasteners, then stand just outside the door to the head, grasp the top step and lift up and back. (In my boat, I also had to open the door to the large cupboard directly across from the head. The steps should come right out in your hands. I doubt you'll finds another bilge pump under there, but there are indeed a pair of limber holes there and if you get down on your stomach and reach down to the floor of the bilge, you'll find them.

By the way, removing these steps you can easily access the manual controls for your generator and in my case the separate generator battery.

These Trojans also came with a standard manual plunger style bilge pump. It is installed just inside the big cupboard door that is located across from the salon head door. Open that cupboard door and find this pump, then take note of the hose that goes from this manual pump to the side of the hull and exits water via a thru hull fitting. I ended up removing this manual antique and using that thru hull fitting to route water for the air conditioning system that I added.

I added a second bilge pump but placed it right beside the original unit, in the forward cabin . It was just a back-up for when the original decided to bite the bullet at some point in the future (which it did)

By the way, when you pull the access door in the forward cabin, and reach down (again on your tummy) into the bilge itself, forward of the bilge pump, you'll find a second drain plug. This plug and the rear plug (center - bottom of the transom.) need to be unscrewed when winterizing in order to allow all the bilge water to drain. If you remove only the rear plug and the boat is blocked with the bow slightly down, the bilge will collect in the forward part of the hull. So both plugs are pulled out by using a ratchet set of wrenches. The front plug is removed and replaced from inside the boat... just sayin'

Rickalan35
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by P-Dogg »

rickalan35 wrote:



and reach down (again on your tummy) into the bilge itself, forward of the bilge pump, you'll find a second drain plug. This plug and the rear plug (center - bottom of the transom.) need to be unscrewed when winterizing in order to allow all the bilge water to drain. If you remove only the rear plug and the boat is blocked with the bow slightly down, the bilge will collect in the forward part of the hull. So both plugs are pulled out by using a ratchet set of wrenches. The front plug is removed and replaced from inside the boat... just sayin'

Rickalan35

Not sure abut the '76 model, but the owner's manual for my '85 says to spend winter in the water, so I don't take my drain plugs out..... just sayin'!
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by rickalan35 »

P Dogg Buddy

Spend the winter in the water???? Last I heard, Maryland wasn't located in the tropics. :)

Surely, fresh water there freezes over. Are you maybe suggesting a bubbler? Salt water I suppose would be different. For those unfortunates who get winter weather and considering the fact that water expands when converting itself to solid state - I assume it's a good idea to pull those drain plugs.
Somehow, I have a suspicion you're pulling my leg about that manual.

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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by P-Dogg »

It is common practice for non-trailerable boats to stay in the water here, maybe just over half of the over 30 crowd get pulled in my marina. Im effectively in fresh water according to the saline charts. They don't use bubblers where I am, but rather their equivalent -- basically 120 V trolling motors.

I like it. Being on the water instead of up in the air means that things don't freeze so soon. Of course I wait as long as possible to winterize, but that is usually long after boats on the hard would have to. And being in the water means that I have heat into late fall and again early in the spring, when the air is too cold, but the water isn't. Cant run the heat pump when you're in the air. I don't have to schedule a haul out with the masses, or be tied to a must-go-back-in date because I'm blocking other boats. Of course, actually being in the water is a requirement for going boating, so there is more of that.

No joke re: manual!
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by prowlersfish »

I am only 150 miles south of P-Dogg and most do not pull out for the winter . Yes the water is saltier (salt water freezes at 28.4 ) But at only 1.6 difference . With that said if blocked correctly it should be no issue . But it sure is nice to take they boat out anytime you want
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by rickalan35 »

Wow.

My boat here in Smiths Falls, Canada on the Rideau System is still up on blocks. About half the boats at our marina are now launched for the coming season. Water in the lakes still a bit high from the winter melt. I have the bottom paint now refreshed and have noticed a slight ding in one of my props. grrrrrrrr. Remains to be seen if I should pull it, marina says it'll be fine and isn't big enough to cause vibration (obviously, I'll be peeved if it does cause it'll mean yanking the boat and sending the prop away for repair)

It will probably be floating some time next week.

Back to the original post here for Glenn and Angie. Hope some of this was of value to you regarding the bilge pump situation in your new TriCabin. Don't know where you're located but if you also happen to be located in warmer climes like our friends Prowler and P Dogg and thus not required to pull your boat for the winter - then I'm going to be even more envious.

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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by P-Dogg »

Glenn&Angie wrote:I am pretty sure there are two, but I can't find the second one. Any help, or info on where to get this info would be great! I already bought a owners manual but it does not tell me where the second one is.
The electrical schematic will show the approximate location. You can work backwards from the outside too. You know how big the thru hull is for the one pump. Look for another that size not near there. Stick a fish tape in the thru hull and have someone listen from inside to see where it goes. The pump must be accessible, but it is possible that the hatch is carpeted over.,
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Robbic
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by Robbic »

I have a 76 trifly.
Twin engines in the aft cabin with a dresser between them.
That dresser slides out of the way, I have 2 auto bilge pumps there. Also the pump for the trim tabs.
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Re: Bilge Pumps 1976 Tri Cabin 36F

Post by Robbic »

Just had a thought.
When I bought my boat, I checked out all the above water thru hulls,
and tried to match them up with stuff. It takes a while, but at least you will know where to look.
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