Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:02 pm
foofer b, I did the same and used 3M 4200 black.looked great.
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Leaking windows
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:39 pm
Holy smokes it comes in black?
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:02 pm
jw
Some suggestions from one who's been there, done that. Suggest you take a look at leakage coming in from the rail mounting holes and standoff along the grab-rails that run along the top edge of the cabin on either side of the boat. They most likely are NOT bedded in ANY sealant. And those bolt holes are located right over the shelf in the cabin on either side of the cabin side windows. CAREFULLY back off the screw just enough to get some slack and squirt silicone sealant in the area over the exposed cabin top/screw hole. If you back off the screws too much you'll lose the nu on the end of the machine screw, so be careful. Allow the silicone to set up for an hour and then tighten down again. That will most likely cure you interior cabin leaks on the sides.
The front windows over the v-berth will need repair/rebedding and I can send you instructions for that if you want. Send me a PM and I'll forward to you.
The front windshield leaks are coming from the side of the frames, and I would like some ideas on how to fix that since I have a small leak on the bottom port edge of my windshield.
Some suggestions from one who's been there, done that. Suggest you take a look at leakage coming in from the rail mounting holes and standoff along the grab-rails that run along the top edge of the cabin on either side of the boat. They most likely are NOT bedded in ANY sealant. And those bolt holes are located right over the shelf in the cabin on either side of the cabin side windows. CAREFULLY back off the screw just enough to get some slack and squirt silicone sealant in the area over the exposed cabin top/screw hole. If you back off the screws too much you'll lose the nu on the end of the machine screw, so be careful. Allow the silicone to set up for an hour and then tighten down again. That will most likely cure you interior cabin leaks on the sides.
The front windows over the v-berth will need repair/rebedding and I can send you instructions for that if you want. Send me a PM and I'll forward to you.
The front windshield leaks are coming from the side of the frames, and I would like some ideas on how to fix that since I have a small leak on the bottom port edge of my windshield.
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:15 pm
foofer b, Mohagany too. Jimbo36
plastic window sealant and technique
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:58 pm
I found the Sikaflex manual and they have detailed information about plexiglass bedding techniques. Go to :
http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads/sik ... ndbook.pdf
They recommend Sikaflex 295 UV
In any case, DO NOT use Polysulfide sealant on plastic components!
-ref from the Don Casey library
Hugh
http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads/sik ... ndbook.pdf
They recommend Sikaflex 295 UV
In any case, DO NOT use Polysulfide sealant on plastic components!
-ref from the Don Casey library
Hugh
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:05 pm
5200 is the best. Period! But not for securing windows of any kind. I've used probably over 200 tubes in the last few years working on boats. A few weekes ago I hauled my Tri out to put a new transducer in. Cut the hole, installed transducer with 5200 then relaunched back into the water 10 minutes later. Thats the confidence I have in 5200.
A tip..... 5200 is a MOFO to work with if the tube gets even slightly cold. In the colder months I keep some tubes on the floor of my truck under the heater vent to keep it warm.
Murphys Law applies.... you will get it where you don't wan't it, like clothes. And it Does Not come out!!!
Ron
A tip..... 5200 is a MOFO to work with if the tube gets even slightly cold. In the colder months I keep some tubes on the floor of my truck under the heater vent to keep it warm.
Murphys Law applies.... you will get it where you don't wan't it, like clothes. And it Does Not come out!!!
Ron