Leaking windows
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
Leaking windows
I have a 1976 F26 with a hardtop. At the base of the windows where it attaches to the boat, I am getting some leaks. It is leaking down into the head and onto the shelf area at the windows. Can you remove the top and windows fairly easy then seal with 3100 any suggestions
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
John
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I had the same problem with my F-30 windshields leaking. I removed the windows, cleaned all the old stuff off, it was like un-cured glazing putty, and recaulked. This has help. The winshield frames are painted black, I read somewhere that the window frames should never be paited black because of the expansion / contraction from the heating of the sun. I plan on painting them white next season.
Hank Newman
"Winsome" 1979 - F30 Clean Machine
First Sergeant, U.S. Army Retired
Co-Owner Don Snyder
"Winsome" 1979 - F30 Clean Machine
First Sergeant, U.S. Army Retired
Co-Owner Don Snyder
5200 is a marine sealant made by 3M. Its good for above or below the waterline and lasts seemingly FOREVER...
A great place to get it is from the sponsors of this site : Here is the link to the store page with the 5200 sealants.
http://www.trojanboats.net/store.html#s ... 5200&c=479
A great place to get it is from the sponsors of this site : Here is the link to the store page with the 5200 sealants.
http://www.trojanboats.net/store.html#s ... 5200&c=479
Current Fleet:
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
2000 Carver 450 Voyager
1991 Thompson 21' Carerra Cuddy
1994 Scout 15'
2005 Caribe LCX9 dingy
1981 16' Hobicat
Former Owner - 1973 Trojan F-36 "Light and Variable"
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John,
I had the same problem on my F-26. I was able to solve the problem without removing the roof and windshield frame. To do this, I first cleaned the joint area to remove any old wax & dirt. Then using masking tape, masked off both sides of the joint about 1/8" away from the joint. Then using LifeSeal, filled the gap then removed the tape before it dried. No more leak.
These frames are self draining so when water gets into them it finds it's way out thru the drilled holes. Be sure these holes are clear. Unfortunatly it will also find it's way thru the screw holes that hold down the windsheild frame if their not well sealed. The frame will most likely have to be removed and resealed if this is the case.
I would try the easy fix first. It may save you some work.
Larry,
If your leak is between the plexiglass and the frame, Be sure to clean both surfaces very well. I actually lightly scuffed mine as well where the sealer would be applied. (I also replaced the plexiglass since it was scratched) Then bond the Plexiglass into place using GE Ultra Glaze Structural Glazing Sealant SSG4000. This stuff just simply works. It's the only thing holding my windows in place. (No retainers) It's been 4 years now & no leaks. Also be sure that the plexiglass does not fit too tightly in the frame. It needs room for thermal expantion & contraction.
If it's youre frames that are leaking, then I agree with the previous posts stating that 5200 is the way to go.
Hope this helps,
I had the same problem on my F-26. I was able to solve the problem without removing the roof and windshield frame. To do this, I first cleaned the joint area to remove any old wax & dirt. Then using masking tape, masked off both sides of the joint about 1/8" away from the joint. Then using LifeSeal, filled the gap then removed the tape before it dried. No more leak.

These frames are self draining so when water gets into them it finds it's way out thru the drilled holes. Be sure these holes are clear. Unfortunatly it will also find it's way thru the screw holes that hold down the windsheild frame if their not well sealed. The frame will most likely have to be removed and resealed if this is the case.

I would try the easy fix first. It may save you some work.

Larry,
If your leak is between the plexiglass and the frame, Be sure to clean both surfaces very well. I actually lightly scuffed mine as well where the sealer would be applied. (I also replaced the plexiglass since it was scratched) Then bond the Plexiglass into place using GE Ultra Glaze Structural Glazing Sealant SSG4000. This stuff just simply works. It's the only thing holding my windows in place. (No retainers) It's been 4 years now & no leaks. Also be sure that the plexiglass does not fit too tightly in the frame. It needs room for thermal expantion & contraction.
If it's youre frames that are leaking, then I agree with the previous posts stating that 5200 is the way to go.
Hope this helps,
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
3M 5200
Be warned that if you seal / glue in the windows with 5200, you'll have one heck of a job replacing them in the future. 5200 is a through hull, hand rail "permenent" sealant adhesive.
Ask your glass guy what he would recommend and will seal the glass and boat from water intrusion, think of it like anti sieze compound, some day you or someone will want to take it apart and will thank you for thinking in the future.
Ask your glass guy what he would recommend and will seal the glass and boat from water intrusion, think of it like anti sieze compound, some day you or someone will want to take it apart and will thank you for thinking in the future.
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Jwhalen. my f26 windows leaked badly when I bought them. I merely dug out all the old caulking between the frame and the cabin I could with a putty knife and then used 4200 to reseal and no more leaks. Oh but be careful 5200/4200 is what we call attack caulk. It will find a way to get on everyting, including attacking you!!!
MY CURRENT FLEET
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF

2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF
