Trojan Boat Forum

Good luck, have been going through the same labor of love here in Texas.

ok here are some more pics. just got them today. it was supposed to be here already but with over-land hauling schedules get changed so i have 6 more days of waiting.

http://photobucket.com/Scorpyon

Welcome aboard! I just picked up a 1973 F25 and we are getting her ready for the Gulf Of Mexico here in Florida. I had the orange counters of the same vintage-love those 70's! My next door neighbor is a cabinet guy and hew is hooking me up with new laminate job. We are also repowering her now. Can't wait to get her in the water! Good luck

awesome. same year and boat. i have the 225 HP mercruiser in my f25. you have the same i assume? I have alot of work ahead of me, but i am sooooo in love with this vessel already. i really want to increase the size of the rudder. Based solely on reviews of the F25 series craft, it is a vessel who doesnt like tight moves too much. I am also running a 14 x 10 prop. Could anyone tell me the maximum size. it looks as though i may have 1-1 3/4" between the widest point of the prop and the tunnel in the hull.

If anyone could point me in the direction of a replacement rudder and max size for a '73 F25prop.

And, (i know shut up already) with a 60gallon tank, what is the best distance i can go safely, and at what speed/RPM?

Mine had the Chrysler 318 but its seized. Just picked up another motor and getting ready to get it in. I have a couple of different props but never having run the boat not sure what will work best-I will let you know

classicf25 wrote:Welcome aboard! I just picked up a 1973 F25 and we are getting her ready for the Gulf Of Mexico here in Florida. ood luck

What part of the Gulf? I will be in Fort Walton Beach this fall. MAYbe we could rendsezvous?

Scorpyon , the prop needs to be matched to the engine and boat If you put the largest prop that will fit the boat then the engine won't be able to turn the right rpm . and that will over load the engine . To put a much larger prop on you would need to change the gear box to a reduction type and then install a larger shaft .

Stay with the 14x10 and see what it turns and then you can make minor changes if needed .

We are located in Hudson Beach, Fl. Not a lot of people are familiar with Hudson Beach it's a little north of Tarpon Springs and just south of Hernando Beach. If you are in the area let us know-hopefully we will have the motor back in her real soon! We can show you some nice spots around here!

Ok so i got her home today, shes up on blocks and i wanted to put the bimini cover up to keep some rain out. It came with an all around cover with clear vinyl windows. Well zippers are bad and vinyl is cracked an hard in alot of places, but i dont know how the stainless support poles go up. Is there a diagram or some web location i can go to see how. All the quick pins have been pulled so its 3 or 4 seperate pieces. thx all

Here's a link to a thread originally posted by Paul SW Ontario, regarding his 1973 F-26. Towards the bottom of page two he has a link to his photo-bucket album which has some pretty detailed photos of his canvas setup. He has a really sharp F-26. Hope it helps

Matt


http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... f26+photos

Nice thing about that Formica is it paints very well.......try rust-oleum epoxy or laquer....work great on almost any clean surface........John

Awesome link thank you very much. And i really hate avocado green except in avocados...lol! Rustoleum you say, excellent.

Now on to yet another query. My hand rail on the aft has lost alot of the varnish that was once there. What would be the safest approach to refinishing it?

option 1: sand it off
option 2: use a chemical like 'circa 1850'(a gel finish solvent)

option 2 is my choice but i worry about what damage may result to the teak, since i have never worked with teak before.

Also, the previous owners bought(and left behind) a bottle of teak oil, and a bottle of teak cleaner. It doesnt say on the bottle anywhere, but will the cleaner remove light surface mould, or should i approach that with another product. i havent decided whether to oil the interior teak or to apply varnish to all the teak. Any insight would be appreciated.

Now that its home everyone, I am CERTAIN I will be posting alot of questions. This is, after all, my very first yacht. WHOOT!

Ok, now i got her all cleaned out, and noticed halfway up the wall in the head, that water has gotten under the helm, saturated and sadly rotted it away....what is the easiest way to replace that wall. good things she is on the hard... still enough good weather left to initate the hardest jobs first.

So...I take it no one has any input into the questions i posed in the last 2 of my posts?

sand it....
if the insides have been oiled in the past I'd stick with it. You'll have to get all of the oil out of the teak... to use any varnish