Trojan Boat Forum

Commissionpoint wrote:

jefflaw35 wrote: This site would be great if it had a "LIKE' button

Re the comment on orange peel while spraying: That doesn't happen if you know how to spray, have good equipment, and follow the application instructions. Rolling it on and tipping it out with a brush takes a bit of getting used to in order to get satisfactory results, and even at that the results are only so good. I suppose it all depends on if the vessel in question is a keeper or not.

I would agree about the orange peel with you. Spraying would also be faster. But not many boaters don't have access to the equipment necessary to achieve good results or have a place even where they could spray. The average person would get far better results with the roll and tip method.

yup almost perfect turns into why did I leave well enough alone ( in different words I can't say here)

has anyone undertaking handpainting the topside above the rubrail? I'm gonna give it a shot as I cant make it look any worse but am wondering about removing / replacing all the hardware,rubrails,ect, ect, ect. anyone know if you can access all the bolts that may be installed rather then topside screws that hold all this **** down? whats the best way to remove stickers/glue?

whats the bare min I have to do to ready the old gelcoat topside for a one part paint job? understand some sanding will be required so what grit ? is this a hit it with three different grits prior to painting or can I just swipe it with one size grit and start painting? I'm not trying a short cut here I'm just being honest and find nothing at all enjoyable in spending three weeks sanding anything!! Can this work be done with an electric orbital ? I wont have access to a large air tank to run the good tools so its hand and my dewalt. is there an easy button??

trojanmanXS wrote:has anyone undertaking handpainting the topside above the rubrail? I'm gonna give it a shot as I cant make it look any worse but am wondering about removing / replacing all the hardware,rubrails,ect, ect, ect. anyone know if you can access all the bolts that may be installed rather then topside screws that hold all this **** down? whats the best way to remove stickers/glue?

whats the bare min I have to do to ready the old gelcoat topside for a one part paint job? understand some sanding will be required so what grit ? is this a hit it with three different grits prior to painting or can I just swipe it with one size grit and start painting? I'm not trying a short cut here I'm just being honest and find nothing at all enjoyable in spending three weeks sanding anything!! Can this work be done with an electric orbital ? I wont have access to a large air tank to run the good tools so its hand and my dewalt. is there an easy button??

Always be carfull with sanders, electric or air, keep it flat if ur gonna use one. Depending on the sanding I would say use 220 and walk up to 320 before paint, if u see scratches then go to 400-500 . Removing sticker glue is easy just use lacquer thinner, don't stay in one spot to long. And yes! If you want a good looking job then remove your interior to get to bolts so you can remove your rails, etc. Would you like me to paint your car door with your handle still in it? Or your mirror? Leaving dry spots or paint build up? Looks ugly wouldn't you agree?

A friend painted his 1966 Ventnor by roll & tip. That boat looked like glass, but coming from a family of perfectionists he didn't like it & did it again. I have to say, it did look even better.

walk away from a bug in fresh paint? 100%

walk away from a bug in fresh paint? 100%

jimbo36 wrote:walk away from a bug in fresh paint? 100%

Its a hard thing to do .

yeah thats the ans I was expecting . as for most of the hardwoare stripping I think I can deal with. when it comes to the bolts hidden under the deck in the cabin area whats the easiest way to remove? I imagine there corroded and am looking at worst case here. lastly a one part paint job during a warm sunny day will dry in how long? as I'm in the woods a bit the bugs start swarming at dusk and looking for windows of time to be assured the paint is cured enough to not wind up looking like someone sprinkled pepper about the topside.

i would start early in the morning, it will give you more working time as the day heats up. dry time will depend on the speed of mateial you buy, slow, medium, fast etc. in the months 85 and up dry time will be quick, maybe quicker than you. Bugs are hard to deal with but it is easier to sand and buff them out than it is to dig for them in fresh paint like the guys said, dont do it, just walk away. Most of the hardware I have found in the cabin to my upper accessories like railings etc hasnt been corroded, you should be ok there i would think. If you get swarming bugs at dusk I would quit in late afternoon and let the paint flash, bugs are less likly to stick if it has a couple hours to set up. but they love the smell for some reason so they will come

trojanmanXS wrote:yeah thats the ans I was expecting . as for most of the hardware stripping I think I can deal with. when it comes to the bolts hidden under the deck in the cabin area whats the easiest way to remove? I imagine there corroded and am looking at worst case here. lastly a one part paint job during a warm sunny day will dry in how long? as I'm in the woods a bit the bugs start swarming at dusk and looking for windows of time to be assured the paint is cured enough to not wind up looking like someone sprinkled pepper about the topside.

removing what deck hardware you can is great but removing the bow rail is really not practical , as would be removing the hard top on mine when painting the bridge.. and the chance of doing damage to the paint job is too great when reinstalling the bow rail .

the bow rail was my biggest concern as it will take multiple people to hold and pass along without it being twisted , dropped and probably the hardest nuts to get loose so this in mind I will leave that alone and tape it up prior to paint, I thought after the paint I would use a small bead of caulk around the bow rail bases to help conceil the shortcut.

I have a 1977 F-32 that I removed the bow rail, rebedded the stanchion bases and re installed in a few hours last spring. if you can remove the interior panels in your forward cabin and the headliner above the dinette, it is actually pretty easy to remove. I posted on this before, but I bought a couple of sets of "vice grips" from Harbor frieght, I think they were 6.99 for three, so once I remved the panels, I clamped a vice grip on each of the three stanchion bolt nuts and on two stanchions at a time and then used my cordless drill on the deck side and removed the bolts, the vice grips dropped but there isnt any hidden caverns for them to fall too.

I think at least 1/4 of the boats twisted off, so I replaced all of the hardware with new 316 stainless steel .

I did not remove the cleats, I think they may pose a greater challenge. I plan to, and I will most likely replace the cleat with shiney new stainless .

anyways, I hope this helps your decision, it would be a lot easier to roll and tip not having to deal with a stanchion base and cleat every few feet.