Trojan Boat Forum

prowlersfish wrote:What Paul And myself are referng to is hooking the dock water hose directly into the boats water line not the tank . The water pump will keep it from back feeding to the tank . You will need a regulator to do so like these

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Exactly

Hi CC

Since you "gutted your engine room", below is the same note I posted today for Barrie......

Something that I've done on all my previous engine rebuilds, and I wish I could now on my current engines (but I can't get at my current installed engines) to do this is......
.....make up a fitting and a +/- 3' length of high temp pressure hose that fits the oil pan drain plug. Run the hose up to the top of the engine and mount it with a threaded plug. Hydraulic hose shops can make this for you with crimped on end fittings. When it's time to change the oil, you attach a (really cheap) 12V impeller pump (or vacuum pump) and you draw every last drop of oil out of the bottom of the pan. After doing this, I could run all season and the oil in my 454's still looked clear.

Ron

RonW wrote:Hi CC

Since you "gutted your engine room", below is the same note I posted today for Barrie......

Something that I've done on all my previous engine rebuilds, and I wish I could now on my current engines (but I can't get at my current installed engines) to do this is......
.....make up a fitting and a +/- 3' length of high temp pressure hose that fits the oil pan drain plug. Run the hose up to the top of the engine and mount it with a threaded plug. Hydraulic hose shops can make this for you with crimped on end fittings. When it's time to change the oil, you attach a (really cheap) 12V impeller pump (or vacuum pump) and you draw every last drop of oil out of the bottom of the pan. After doing this, I could run all season and the oil in my 454's still looked clear.

Ron

Great idea. I'll run it by my mechanic. Thanks!

Consider how many amps a large heater will draw on startup. Stay with original sizes unless your electrical system is up to it.