possibly repowering

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:04 am

I was just thinking about which direction i should go with this project. she is a 1975 30' fly bridge she currently has 2 chrysler v-8 i believe they are 318 but not sure. I was given a couple of different ideas and wanted to see what you guys think.
1. rebuild the engines
2. replace with 6 cylinders the old slant six that never die that was suggested by a harbor master.
3. replace with new v-8
any thoughts? here is how I plan on using the boat, she will be moored and used for local trips on possibly week end.

MattSC · Post by **MattSC** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:39 am

It all depends on how much you want to spend on the project and how long you are thinking of holding on to the boat. Probably the easiest would be to install rebuilt (long block) 318's. I don't have that much experience with the straight 6, but I'm sure you'd have to take some measurements to make sure they fit, as I do think they are a bit longer than a 318. As for new, it's pretty expensive. I installed a crusader 5.7 fuel injected engine 4 yrs ago. Back then a bobtail engine (ready to run) was about 6K without the trans. I have a borg warner 1:1 which new is about 1K. As for use, any engine that was properly built and maintained should give you the reliability you're looking for. Keep us posted,
Matt

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:17 am

thanks for the feed back

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:33 am

Rebuilting the current engines is a good Idea if fresh water cooled .If not long blocks maybe the way to go . I would also replace the manfolds and risers .

Replacing the engines with new V8s is also a good idea ,the most costly but really the best idea .

Going with the slant 6 is a bad idea. Real bad ! for the following reasons
1) less power will work harder to get on plane.(if it can )
2) Good luck finding parts Last set I worked on I had trouble getting parts and that was over 20 years ago .
3) the slant 6 Was not great marine Engine it was ok . The 318 was a great marine engine much better then the 6 .

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:31 pm

You can buy a factory re-manufactured 318 marine longblock for just under $2K. I took this route a few years ago, and did most of the work myself. I hired a mechanic for about 10 hours for some of the critical assembly areas where I had no experience, like sealing the circulator pump and timing cover, the intake manifold, and the initial comissioning of the assembled motor (before it went back in the boat.) I also replaced the transmission at the time (a new velvet drive under $1K, the same as MattSC mentioned below).

I used as much stuff as possible from the old engine such as distributor, ignition sytem, wire harness, carburetor, intake manifold, fuel pump, oil pan, bell housing, raw water pump, etc. By the time I was done buying various parts, exhaust manifold, risers, circulator pump, starter, alternator, all hoses, the total project was approaching $6K.

New Crusaders currently start around $7,600 LH bobtail. [add about $1K for a 1:1 trans and $1K for RH. V-drives are about 3K more.]
http://www.1800runsnew.com/NLM/crusader ... s-NLM.html

There are pros and cons to each approach. It took quite a while to get all the bugs worked out after my rebuild was in the boat and she was re-launched. I had the carb and distributor rebuilt after the boat was back in the water because I wasn't getting the expected performance, which was dissapointing and tied me up for nearly a month during our short boating season. Since I did most of the work myself, I didn't have anyone to hold responsible for the debugging.

I had never done this level of mechanical engine work before and it was a real learning experience for me. I'm a lot more confident about working on the engine, than before. Since I do my boating on a shoestring budget, I guess spending more time and less money - but dealing with the issues has been my approach.

I wouldn't consider getting into re-building the crankshaft & valve train unless you have a LOT of time, some experience or someone to learn from, and a clean place to work. It's been done before by inexperienced people, but I have a really hard time seeing how it could be worthwhile.

I would hesitate before doing this project again. It took a lot more effort than I expected both to identify and chase down parts and actually do the work. There is a lot to be said to having one neck to ring when you have a problem.

I would say the key take-away is don't get sucked in by the $2K price of the long-block thinking that is the main cost. You are probably looking at an absolute minimum of $6K per engine for a re-man and if you go with a new engine and someone else does the installation, you should be thinking $10K per engine or more.

Good Luck,
Chuck

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:14 pm

well all that sounds good and I appreciate the info, I also am on a shoestring budget maybe more like thread budget, maybe I should look into buying real long paddles just kiding.. I will probably have to rebuild the motors myself I have a bit of mechanical experience so hopfully that will carry me thru I also have a two car garage that only houses my harley and tools so that shouldn't be a problem. the motors are fresh water cooled although one had one head removed and there is water and rust in the cylinders but I think it could be honed out.

I was wondering if there is a way to tell if the motors are standard rotation motors or standard & reverse rotation motors?

thanks for all the info

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 4:28 pm

bostonjake01
Its a safe bet that you have both a normal and a reverse rotation engine

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:29 pm

You should check out the Chrysler section on the marineengine discussion board. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/mess ... 2490.shtml

Search the archives and if you can't find answers there, post your questions. There are some knowlegable people there who are happy to provide advice. Here is a related thread

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/mess ... 2563.shtml

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:05 am

thanks chucka I will check that out

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:00 am

Sounds like the advice you are getting here is leaning you toward the rebuild option. And so it should. it is the most practical solution. There are 3 ways to go. 1. New short or long block, 2. rebuilt short or long block or, my personal choice, 3. have a reputable machine shop rebuild your existing engines. Leave it to a local professional that is going to be there for you if there are problems. And yes, there can be many! A friend of mine went the long block option, had a machine shop perform the work and spun a main bearing. The engine suppler required the block returned before committing to a replacement, which they did, but the labour was not included (tear down and rebuild) and he blew his whole season. Another local guy had his rebuilt by a local machine shop. One developed a major problem within a week of installation. The machine shop was at the dock, pulling the bad one out and had it back and running in 3 days!! Funny what happens when you have a reputation to protect. The overal cost is usually better than short or long blocks as well, and no transportation costs. DO IT RIGHT....... IT WILL BE CHEAPER AT THE END OF THE DAY!

Your Port engine is a counter rotater. Pull the Distributer cap off, crank the engine and watch the rotor turn in reverse.

Slant 6's should not even be on the radar screen, Good luck.

rickalan35 · Post by **rickalan35** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:33 am

Good Advice IMHO..... especially the comment re: slant six's.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:12 pm

Jimbo , the port (left ) engine is normally the standard rotation Engine .
The starboard (right ) engine, is a reverse or counter rotation .

http://www.boatpartsinfo.com/engine-rotation.html

Don Lumber · Post by **Don Lumber** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:40 pm

Aren't Chryslers opposite of the norm though?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:30 pm

Don Lumber wrote:Aren't Chryslers opposite of the norm though?

Not that I know of but I am opposite of the norm sometimes my self LOL

bostonjake01 · Post by **bostonjake01** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 5:20 pm

thanks for all the info I did check on the link chucka added and then a thread lead me to http://www.hurrikain.com which had engine tag info and I looked a my motors and the port side is counter rotation. I will be rebuilding the motors I will most likely have a machine shop do it but It depends on what the final figure is.
I will post the progress on here and add pictures on the link below.
thanks again