Bottom paint
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.
Bottom paint
Well as soon as spring gets here I'm going to pull my F32 and repaint the bottom.
What would you guys recommend for bottom paint.
I looking for somethihng that will last 3 years.
Bob
What would you guys recommend for bottom paint.
I looking for somethihng that will last 3 years.
Bob
Bob W
-
- Moderate User
- Posts: 468
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:48 pm
- Location: Sunny Florida, Orlando
- Contact:
Re: Bottom paint
bob wilkins wrote:Well as soon as spring gets here I'm going to pull my F32 and repaint the bottom.
What would you guys recommend for bottom paint.
I looking for somethihng that will last 3 years.
Bob
Anti-fouling paint keeps marine organisms, taking the forms of shell (animal fouling from barnacles and zebra mussels), weed (plant growth) and slime (single-celled algae) from attaching themselves to your boat by releasing toxic Biocides at a controlled rate. Copper compounds (Cuprous oxide or Cuprous Thiocyanate) are most popular; and conventional thinking is that the higher the copper content, the more effective the anti-fouling paint.
Choosing an antifouling paint is regional, as boaters in the Great Lakes, Pacific Coast, Southeast, Gulf Coast and other regions tend to choose similarly to their neighbors in the local marina. Your choice also depends on how you use your boat and the type of paint you applied in the past (since there can be compatibility problems between some types and others). In general, softer paints can be applied over harder paints but not vice-versa. There are exceptions however, so it's always best to consult a compatibility chart. Interlux and Pettit each make a full line of excellent bottom paints, including five primary types of antifouling paints.
Trojan
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.
-
- Moderate User
- Posts: 468
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:48 pm
- Location: Sunny Florida, Orlando
- Contact:
If you can get a chip of the old bottom paint, you can take it to local paint store they may be able to tell you.bob wilkins wrote:Thanks Rodman
I'm in Maryland north of Baltimore.
I don't know what the previous owner used.
Bob
Trojan
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.
-
- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1320
- Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:45 pm
- Location: Black Creek, Florida
- Contact:
My Father uses Petit Trinidad. Expensive but worth it. Gets 2-3 years without significant fouling, and I should know, I have to dive and scrape his running gear twice a year. Oh and he keepps it in the water year round. I used it on mine and did not even get slime after 3 months straigh in the water. Probly over kill for me as mine is trailered most of the time.
MY CURRENT FLEET
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF

2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF

- captainmaniac
- 2025 Gold Support
- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
- Location: Burlington, Ontario
Different kinds of paint work different ways as well. Some 'hard paints' are full of stuff that 'tastes bad' to the critters that might decide to hitch a ride, so they let go. The paint is designed so that these chemicals leech out of the paint over time. The down side - once most of the stuff has leeched out, you are left with a coat of paint that does nothing to reduce fouling. Then you have to add another coat. Over a few years / reacoats, you end up with a bottom that is covered in really thick and rough bottom paint.
Some paints are designed to wash away over time (ablative paints), and also contain some biocides, but not to the same degree as the hard paints. These paints retard growth because of the biocides, and anything that does stick is likely not to be able to keep a grip as the paint slowly washes away. You also end up with a smoother bottom as the paint polishes off (like a bar of soap). With these paints, you put several coats on initially, then touch up spots that are wearing too thin as needed, but what is on the boat never gets too thick as it is always rinsing away. You only end up touching up the 'high wear' areas. What I use (Lake Ontario) is one of these - Interlux Micron CSC. I did my first coat in green, the next 3 in black. When I see green somewhere again, its time to add more black in those spots.
One other important note : compatibility. You can't just paint anything over top of anything, so it is important to try to find out whats on there now to understand what you can overcoat with, vs having to strip it or apply barrier coat before switching to something different.
Some paints are designed to wash away over time (ablative paints), and also contain some biocides, but not to the same degree as the hard paints. These paints retard growth because of the biocides, and anything that does stick is likely not to be able to keep a grip as the paint slowly washes away. You also end up with a smoother bottom as the paint polishes off (like a bar of soap). With these paints, you put several coats on initially, then touch up spots that are wearing too thin as needed, but what is on the boat never gets too thick as it is always rinsing away. You only end up touching up the 'high wear' areas. What I use (Lake Ontario) is one of these - Interlux Micron CSC. I did my first coat in green, the next 3 in black. When I see green somewhere again, its time to add more black in those spots.
One other important note : compatibility. You can't just paint anything over top of anything, so it is important to try to find out whats on there now to understand what you can overcoat with, vs having to strip it or apply barrier coat before switching to something different.
same thing herewowzer52 wrote:I use ablative (sluffing) paint. Nothing fancy about it. Three coats every five years. Nothing grows on it. If the boat sits long enough to get slime I go for a little ride and it's gone.
TIKI III
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
Bob, I also am in the Chesapeake across from you ( Magothy river). Best paint for this area I found is West Marine brand hard finish. If existing type is unknown Interlux A.C.T. is compatible with 95% of other brands. I presently use the A.C.T. on my 10 meter ( ablative with slime resistance ).
Also check out Interlux website or get a brochure from marine supply store for more info.
Also check out Interlux website or get a brochure from marine supply store for more info.
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.