TriCabin door from bridge to salon repacement?

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Second Mate
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TriCabin door from bridge to salon repacement?

Post by Second Mate »

Hi all,

One of the former owners built a hardtop for our 1970 tri-cabin. The whole bridge is completely enclosed but we've now decided to do some modifications. So now we're about to remove the back half of the hardtop providing shade but still being open to the elements.

The downside is that when the hardtop was added, they removed the door from the bridge to the salon. We'd like to replace it but have no idea where to find it?

I'm guessing I' probably need to build it myself if no one has any ideas. If that's the case, any chance someone could upload photos and measurements of the factory door & how it operates?

Thanks in advance!
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

I have a 73' tricabin. I don't know if the solon doors are the same, but I can send you some photos of the door in about a week if you want. I have the hatch apart in my workshop. It's being reconditioned. My hatch is a 2 piece design that hinges in the middle. To open it you fold it in half and push it along 2 u channel tracks. If you think it's the same I can make a skectch and send it to you.
rickalan35
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Post by rickalan35 »

Hi

Any chance of seeing a photo of that hardtop? I'd appreciate a look.

Rick
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters
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Post by Second Mate »

@ Bob - That would be great if you could get me some photos of the actual rails. I'm fairly sure it's the same on my boat as yours. I think they simply removed the door, hinge and rails and put a fabric door in it's place when they built the hardtop. They also covered the sides/edges of the opening in vinyl as well which I plan on removing to build the new door. See the link below for what I believe my door should look like.

http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/ae28 ... t=fly3.jpg

@ rick. I will upload a picture ASAP, I need to find some that I have. Boat is under shrinkwrap now and all my photos are on a flashdrive somewhere. Recently replaced the harddrive on this computer.
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

Yep, that's it. I'll get some photos of the door and track this week end. The hatch is apart, but I'll take photos of that too. Not sure how to post them though.
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captainmaniac
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Post by captainmaniac »

Same concept as my father's '69...
The rails will be a basic track a lot like this guy http://www.extrude-a-trim.com/pages/ima ... bm3084.gif but are installed 'upside down' compared to how portrayed in this diagram... The forward section of the hatch would be attached to the track via screws on the underside, with a pair of big fat washers or nylon bushings that go 'in' and 'above' the track to hold the hatch in place, allow it to slide, and make sure you aren't grinding away at the wood itself.
The forward and aft parts of the hatch are hinged (full width piano style hinge), otherwise the aft part is not attached to anything.
There are a few different typical treatments for the aft part of the hatch - (a) simple flat piece of wood that just sits on top of your door, (b) extend the length so it stretches an inch or so beyond the door when closed, and add a lip to it (eliminate any water leaks from above or behind), or (c) make the door a half inch taller than needed and notch the hatch to fit the door (same idea as (b), but a more 'cabinet maker-ish' approach).
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

CaptainManaic, you just described my hatch. Mine has the notch in the hatch (1 1/8 wide x 3/8 deep). The notch rest on the door. My hatch is 25" x 21 3/4" teak faced plywood cut in half with a piano hinge like you described. 3 sides are framed with 3/4" x 1 1/4" teak. The 4th side (aft) is 3/4 x 1 5/8 with an access arch cut on the port side. The forward frame piece has a notch where both tracks have to pass.

As I menioned earlier I have the hatch apart and am refinishing it. I did notice that there were pieces of rubber alsmost like a bike tire inner tube between the piano hinge and both halves of the 3/4 board. It appears this may have been a rubber water shield that went over the piano hinge mounted by the same screws that hold the piano hinge to the hatch halves.
rickalan35
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Post by rickalan35 »

I had that old "water shield" or gasket or whatever on mine too, Bob. I didn't replace it when I refinished my hatch because my hatch is never open to the elements.
Trojan 1994 370 Express, 502 Bluewaters
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

I have a bimini with full side curtains. I was considering splitting a bicycle inner tube and trying to use that, but I thought it'd probably break down after a few years. I just bought this boat last September, so I have no idea how the elements effect this hatch. With the full side curtains and all do you think I need to bother with the rubber shield?

You can see some photos of the hatch.
http://73trojantricabin.shutterfly.com/pictures/9
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captainmaniac
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Post by captainmaniac »

If the area stays dry, probably don't need to worry about it. If your canvas leaks or you have a lot of condensation problems around the hatch area, or a zillion bugs you want a bit more of a seal to keep out, a bit of additional weather-proofing might help.
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

OK, sounds like a weather seal it is. Thx
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

I added pictures of the door and track. Have a look.

http://73trojantricabin.shutterfly.com/pictures/9
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captainmaniac
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Post by captainmaniac »

Reminds me of 'the old days'.... Pretty similar setup to what Dad used to have on his old 28'. Just wondering though - in pic #6 (or file 100-1055.jpg)..... are you using the bottle a measuring device of some kind, or are you just really looking forward to the drinking - oops - I mean boating - season ???
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Bob Giaier
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Post by Bob Giaier »

You caught that eh? A full one would have worked better to hold the measuring tape down, but the full ones were all gone. Anyways an empty beer's not much good for anything else.
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Post by rickalan35 »

As long as you weren't playing spin the bottle
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