Going to repack the rudder stuffing box. Need advice.

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:15 pm

I going to take the cross board that the shaft goes through out so that way i can get at the bolts better and should be able to just put the stuffing right in the nut by hand so it will make staggering it very easy. will this work or should i leave everything in and do it w/ everythins together? would be a very hard reach all the way down like that. I have a F-25.

PS there is a lot of water coming into the boat as of last season and we can tell its coming from the aft area so i figured theres about a 9/10 chance its the stuffing box for the rudder. Also the boat is on stands right now.

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:16 pm

Did you try tightening the packing nut first before changing the packing? The rudder packing doesn't take a whippin like the drive shaft packing and you may be able to just back the lock nut off and tighten the packing nut down some to get it to stop leaking. The rudder shaft does not need water to drip every ten seconds for cooling and lube because it doesn't spin like the drive shaft, therefore rudder packing lasts much longer.

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:47 pm

well i already removed the arm and the rudder slid down into the gravel. Will the fact that i let the shaft slide up and down like that affect the packing or should i just bolt it all back up and tighten it down? I ran out of time while out there so basically all i did was take the arm that hooks up the cable off and then the shaft/rudder dropped down on to the the gravel. i know you can replace the drive shaft one in the water how about the rudder?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:44 pm

You do not remove the rudder to repack it

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:21 pm

You should not have to remove anything but the packing nut to repack it. If a rudder stuffing box is packed correctly it should last for decades with occasional tightenings. The shaft falling out when you took the arm off is no indication of the packing condition, just that it was not tight. I assume you know the shaft has to be in there to pack the stuffing box. After adding new packing, tighten it up much tighter than you would a shaft box. I have had rudders 'flutter' from the prop pulses hitting them and make an awful vibration in the stern, and tightening the packing nut eliminated it.

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:32 pm

ok so the fact that I took off the steering stem (not sure what the technical name is) and the shaft slid down about 4 inches wont make a difference in the packing that is in there???? I can just put the stem back on and tighten the nut and be on my way? Basically im worried if the fact that I let the shaft slide down will mean I now HAVE to repack it?

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:01 am

As long as the shaft didn't come out of the packing too far you may be able to slide it back in and tighten the nut down and be on your way.

skuzzlebutt · Post by **skuzzlebutt** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 8:37 am

ok good.. it didnt come out all the way ... it could not because the rudder hit the gravel. so it only slid up and down. actually if i wanted to get it all the way out i'd have to hoist the back end up about another 10 inches probably.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:18 pm

You took the "Tiller Arm" off.

You should be able to put it all back like it was before - and then simply loosen the "LOCK NUT", and tighten the "PACKING NUT" until the flow of water ceases ... You might want to go ahead and remove the Packing Nut and replace the flax packing. You can get the packing at West Marine - 3/16" I believe.

F36 Rudder Stuff Box