Fuel Line Replacement or frozen nut removal

dollarbill · Post by **dollarbill** » Wed May 05, 2010 2:18 pm

I am replacing my Fuel Pump on my a 318LM --- one problem that I am going to encounter is that the nut on the copper line to the Carb from the old fuel pump is fast on its way to being stripped... any suggestions?? I have tried wd40 but it is not budging...

Thinking ahead....

If I cannot get that nut off... I will need to replace that fuel line... what to replace it with??? It is copper... and the copper has done well so far so I would like to go back with it... but who makes copper fuel lines?? I have called some Industrial supply places that make hydraulic hoses thinking they may handle other types... they said no....

Thanks....

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Wed May 05, 2010 2:32 pm

Go to a propane supplier. They can make one up for you with the correct copper and the proper fittings. Take you old one with you.

larglo · Post by **larglo** » Wed May 05, 2010 3:54 pm

Can a flexible fuel line be used? Copper makes me nervous, vibration could cause the copper to crack, leak,,,and boom!

Larry

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Wed May 05, 2010 4:57 pm

Use your vise grips to get it off then replace it with hose barbs and marine grade fuel hose, or find you a SS braided teflon hose in McMaster Carr and put that on there. Copper on an engine will work harden and crack.

ltbrett · Post by **ltbrett** » Wed May 05, 2010 5:37 pm

Vice grips are a bit of a last resort. Flare wrenches are best, but you may have entered the vice grip zone.

Brett

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Wed May 05, 2010 7:16 pm

I'd say he's in the vise-grip zone. You need to get some PT-Blaster to loosen up the Tread-lock that's most likely on the fittin' and take the tubing to gas shop or a good mom and pop garage/marina and have a steel one made or if you have a good hose shop in town they can make S/S braided hose rated rated for corn gas.

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Wed May 05, 2010 8:25 pm

Just a note of caution; I've ran into more than one surveyor that was not happy to see a braided section of fuel line installed as they cannot tell what type of line is under the braid. It then becomes a red flag on the survey.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Wed May 05, 2010 9:35 pm

'Surveyors' are part of the socialist plot, like insurance. I don't let them near my boat.

rooferdave · Post by **rooferdave** » Wed May 05, 2010 10:13 pm

try fluid film, wd 40 is mostly water and not really great for freeing up frozen parts. Be prepared to apply and give it 24 hours to do its stuff, check out their website

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Wed May 05, 2010 10:20 pm

Just putting the surveyor thing out there for those that do use them!

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Thu May 06, 2010 3:05 am

What is fluid film ?

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Thu May 06, 2010 3:50 pm

http://www.fluid-film.com/

The stuff really works!

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Fri May 07, 2010 8:35 pm

Hey no problem on the surveyors. Some of my best friends and even some family members use them.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sat May 08, 2010 3:58 pm

Jerry,

That Fluid Film looks pretty good. Where are you guys buying it? Is it expensive in the spray can?

I use Boeshield T9 http://www.boeshield.com/ - developed by Boeing for corrosion protection on aircraft, but its expensive (even when I buy at wholesale). According to Powerboat Reports, "Our test of greases, oils and aerosols finds Boeshield T-9Â® and good old Vaseline are best buys in protecting metal brightwork."

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sat May 08, 2010 7:44 pm

The best penetrating oil I've found for loosening rusted or corroded threaded connections is PB Blaster. I would not expect a fuel line fitting on a carb to be excessively rusted or corroded. It should come right out with a good pair of vise grips.