Maxwell windlass problem

CaptMike · Post by **CaptMike** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:02 pm

Hello,

The other day while pulling up the anchor, my Maxwell windlass went out. It only clicks while using the helm and foot controls. I see a breaker box in the engine room for the windlass, nothing on my cockpit panel, and I am trying to figure out if there is an in-line breaker somewhere. Anybody know?

It doesn't seem like it will be a breaker as I can hear the solinoid click when using all the switches. Doesn't seem like it would be the helm switch breaker either.

My last guess is that the motor is shot and I will have to pull it off to be rebuilt. Any ideas other than that?

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:09 pm

You need to get the model number off and give Maxwell tech support a call. They may be able to walk you through troubleshooting. You could try tapping on the motor itself with a soft hammer and see if works, even a bit...then you'll most likely need a motor.
Good luck.

http://www.maxwellmarine.com/support_resources.php

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:57 pm

If the solenoid pack/box is in the rode locker, they have a tendancy to fail prematurely. If you're handy with a meter, check to see if there is 12 volts at either of the positive leads to ground while someone activates the switch. If there isn't, it's the solenoid pack.

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:07 am

when I was troubleshooting my windlass over the winter, I bought a cheap lawn tractor battery and connected directly to the windlass and bypassed everything else.

Then worked my way back once I knew the windlass itself was functional.

If you do that, don't be alarmed by the spark when you make the connection. It takes a second to work, and the intial spark might make you think it's hooked backwards.

Bob

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:50 pm

Capt Mike, sorry, I should have mentioned that the readings I suggested you take are at the motor not the solenoid pack. If you don't get 12 volts at the motor while someone activates a switch and you are hearing clicking, it's the solenoid box. as the clicking indicates your switch is ok. If you do get 12 volts and the motor doesn't rotate, it's a deffective motor.

Bob is right about the sparks. They draw a lot of current.