Stainless Steel Manifolds????

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:41 pm

It is time to change my manifolds and risers. An aquaintence mentioned using stainless steel manifolds and risers . Said you could then go 8 or 9 years between changes. Anyone heard of this? Are they a lot more expensive. I found EBasicpower.com for regular manifolds. He mentioned Imco or Stainless marine.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:46 pm

heard they last longer, but also heard they can be leakers due the to metals heating and cooling differently, Iput the Merc ceramic coated on to seasons ago and I'm happy with them.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:11 pm

Will the ceramic last much longer?

vabeach1234 · Post by **vabeach1234** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 4:10 pm

What engine do you have?
Is your engine fresh water cooled or raw water?

I have a Chrysler 318 and have the exhaust manifolds part of the closed cooling system. The transmission and v-drive are raw water cooled though. The raw water dumps out of the elbows which are about $100 a piece. My elbows are due to be replaced but seeing how the manifolds are freshwater cooled, they should last a lot longer.

It may be cheaper to get a freshwater cooling kit if you don't already have one than to get stainless mainfolds. I don't think they make stainless exhausts for the Chrysler 318.

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 5:30 pm

I've never heard of fresh water cooled exhaust since the water that cools them goes right out the exhaust pipe.

RedBelly · Post by **RedBelly** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 5:59 pm

The exhaust isn't fresh water cooled. The the block and manifolds are cooled by ethyl glycol in a closed loop, just like a car engine. The raw water that cools the glycol in a heat exchanger is then dumped into the risers and exits through the exhaust.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:01 pm

wowzer52 wrote:I've never heard of fresh water cooled exhaust since the water that cools them goes right out the exhaust pipe.

Coolant ( fresh water ) runs Thu the manifold a long with the engine salt or raw water goes Thu the riser . the use the same manifolds and risers but use a a gasket ( or plate) with no coolant holes in it between the manifold and riser .

If you where to buy a fresh water system for your engine a half system would be engine only and a full system would be engine and manifold cooling. a lager heat exchanger is used on the full system.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:06 pm

I have a raw water cooled 454 crusader.

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 5:54 am

If you whole engine is Raw water cooled I wouldn't waste the money on any S/S sense sooner or later the heated salt water will EAT your block, I'd just keep using stock ones and carry on until good'ole mother nature gets you..

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:21 am

Good point , Money would be better spent installing a close cooling system and new cast manifolds

gettaway · Post by **gettaway** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:58 pm

These guys seem like they know what they are doing, plus will help you with advice of how to plumb for closed or raw water cooling.
prices are pretty low too

httphttp://www.mooreperformance.info/Mercru ... ifold.html

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:45 pm

Nice manifolds. I'd consider the aluminum version simply to shed a few pounds from the boat.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:02 pm

They make aluminum ones too?

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:31 pm

I'd stay cast iron, aluminum, steel and salt don't mix well and then there's the over and under torque of the aluminum and block . Both heat at different rates I think it would or could be a P.I.T.A in the long run .imo

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:59 pm

Thaks Alex, et al. I will be going c/a all the way. Any tips or pointers?