F-26 DC Panel

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:09 pm

I was looking at my DC electrical panel recently and decided that it might be time to replace the old glass fuse blocks with breakers. Uh oh, winter project

. Right now there's the main fuse blocks and a few contact strips in the base of the helm. Then there's a junction box on the fwd bulkhead in the engine bay with breakers for the trim tabs and the fridge mounted in it as well as 5 or 6 other inline fuses located elsewhere in the boat. I'm thinking that this would be a good time to bring all of the fuses and existing breakers into one place.

Here's my rough plan. Remove the fuse blocks and replace them with contact strips. Run all of the fused loads to this strip. Then I can make a labeled wiring harness and run it from the strip to a new panel with the new breakers and install it the same way that the existing black panel with the hour meter is installed. Oh yeah, and up date the existing black panel as well. I spoke to a guy at a sign shop that said he could make me aluminum panels with all of the required holes cut out and labeled. I also plan on replacing the Sudbury on/off switch for the ignition circuit with a Blue Sea M series (black) on/off switch. Then I'll add a second switch of the same type right next to it that will be the main shut off for the house bank. I'll also eliminate the three pieces of existing bus duct and replace them with a custom plastic panel.

Any way, I'm still in the concept stage and still have some things to work out.

Below is the existing DC panel

This is the bus ducts open to show the existing contact strips and fuse blocks. The black panel is removed.

Below is a CAD model of what the new panels will look like. Like I said before, I still have some things to work out so there not complete.

I am open to suggestions and if anybody is interested on how this project is progressing, I'll post updates as I go along.

Well back to the drawing board.

MattSC · Post by **MattSC** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:13 pm

Definitely show us some updates, I'm thinking of rewiring mine if I have enough time before launch

rsciolino · Post by **rsciolino** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:04 am

I am right behind you with the same project on my 1978 F-26 FB. I am eliminating my flybridge and will be rewiring the entire boat. new gauges, wiring, protection, LED Lights etc. including the relocation of the batteries.

I did not take the panel design approach as you have but that looks interesting. Keep the info coming.

Russ

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:14 am

Russ,

Where are your batteries now?

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:12 pm

Paul, your panel looks clean now. Wish mine were that uncluttered. Please keep us all posed. Roy

rsciolino · Post by **rsciolino** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:25 pm

batteries are in the stairs. am going to move them to the port side of the cockpit, forward of the engine bulkhead. The storage cabinet that is port side of the cabin stairs is being removed.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:32 pm

Mine were in the stairs when I bought the boat. I relocated them to the engine bay in a rack that sits just behind and over the shaft seal. That way there's no vapors from charging in the cabin and the weight stays in the center of the boat.

If you move yours to the side of your boat, you may have to ballast the other side to keep the boat level.

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:42 pm

Paul, please keep us posted and pictures would be great. I too have considered upgrading the DC side on the BH, and now that I'm retired I have PLENTY of time to do it! (Just lack the motivation). I've tied all DC to the current fuse panel and buss bars, but breakers are the way to go IMO. I added the house bank of 2 group 29s (total 250AH) to the empty well under the port seat. Removed the panel, removed some of the lead ballast to accomodate the weight of the batteries) then wired this bank (in parallel) to the switch and the ACR. I have a single g29 under the stairs for a dedicated engine bank, also wired through the ACR. My dual bank 20A battery charger, smal inverter and fuse blocks for the ACR and inverter are all mounted on the inside cabin wall about the "book shelf" on the port side. Not the most aestetic look but functional. I like your idea of moving the battery banks over the shaft. May work that into the plan as well. Keep them posts and pictures coming!

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:31 pm

Here's an update on where I'm at with this project. I've completed the panel design and the panels, breakers and switches are all on order. The 14 glass fuses that currently exist will be replaced with 22 breakers. The extra breakers allow me to split a couple of the loads and also eliminate several in line fuses. As I was going thru the amp ratings required for the new breakers, I was surprised to find that several of the glass fuses now in place do not match the required amp ratings. For example, the cabin lights call for a 10A fuse but in its place I found a 25A fuse. This is not good, I wish that I would have caught this years ago. I took for granted that they were the correct fuses but I am the third owner and I guess that things got mis-matched before I bought the boat.

Anyway, below is a model of my new panel assemblies. The main panel on the left will directly replace the existing panel and the breaker panel will be installed next to it in the same fashion. The hour meter, Volt gauge, windlass breaker and the three red breakers already exist on the boat in various locations. Bringing them all to one place only makes sense. The two rotary switches are Blue Seas M-Series battery switches. The three toggle switches and push button breakers are also Blue Seas parts. Two of the toggle switches control a forward and aft bilge pump that are hooked up to the house bank. This is in addition to the two pumps that are connected to the cranking bank and switched at the helm. Call me paranoid but I believe in back up pumps and if one set on the cranking bank were to kill the battery when I'm not around, the house bank set would take over. Yes there all automatic.

So far with the items on order, I have about $370 CDN into this project. I still have to buy a terminal strip, wire, crimp on eyelets ond a few other odds and ends.

I'll post more as this project progresses.

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:51 pm

Looks really nice, Paul. Any thought to replacing the wooden kick panel with clear or tinted plexiglas? I was mulling this over as an alternative. I don't think it would detract from the rest of the helm and would allow visual access to the electrical panel. Just an idle thought since my boat is "glaciered-in" for the time being.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:09 pm

I hadn't thought of that Randy but that's not a bad idea. A nice piece of smoked acrylic would probably look good there.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:35 pm

I have now received the panels, switches and most of the breakers. I've assembled what I have and brought it to the boat to rough fit it into place and check clearance in order to see how best to run the wiring harnesses. Below are pictures of how it looks.

The next step will be to remove the existing fuse block and label the leads for all of the loads that are connected to it. Then replace the fuse block with terminal strips and connect the leads to it. This will allow me to pre wire the new breaker panel here at home then bring it to the boat and install it. The switch panel will have to be wired at the boat.

I'll keep posting as I make progress.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:41 pm

Did you make your pannels ?

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:25 pm

Nice, really nice!

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:14 pm

Thanks. I designed the panels then had a local sign shop cut them out and label them. They cut the aluminum on a CNC router table.