Trojan Boat Forum

Sorry to start a new topic- could not find my old one and someone pm'ed me thru Bob asking about it. I have recieved my rebuild kit but have not the time yet to diginto her. Plus I need an adjustable spanner pin wrench with 3/16 pin . Any ideas where to get one?

A ajustable tool for a boat fuel cap should work

http://www.iboats.com/Perko-Heavy-Duty- ... ew_id.5376


Most marine stores should carry them

This is the type pictured on the instructions page. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... oup_ID=602



However, the instructions call for a 3/16" pin size and 3/4" - 2" adjustable span, but in that size only 1-8" pins come with it. Will it really matter?

If not overly tight it should work if thats the type spaner you need the outher type is just like fuel cap wrench I showed .

do you have a photo of the part your tring to remove ?

prowlersfish wrote:do you have a photo of the part your tring to remove ?

My question exactly. The SnapOn tool looks like it's designed to wrap around something cylinder shaped and help you rotate it. The one that Paul posted is for removing a cap or deckplate - totally different applications, needing totally different tools.

All my spaner tools are like the deck plate tool , used once in a grat while but never needed one like the other type.

gLAD YOU GUYS CHIMED IN. i BORROWED A TOOL BASED ON THE PICTURE SUPPLIED ITH THE REBUILD KIT. Here is the pic.


Here is the cylinder at both ends. Doesn't look like it will work on this cylinder.




Or the other end







Kinda looks like I need the type wrench that Prowlerfish pointed out, Here.


http://www.iboats.com/Perko-Heavy-Duty- ... ew_id.5376



Perhaps I'd better make sure my seal and oring kit is the correct one. Cuz the piture for the spanner wrench aint right.

Sears carrys some on line

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 22432569-2

Looks like you need to twist the end cap out of the cylinder, in which case the tool Paul is promoting is probably the right one. Most marine stores should have them.

I cannot get the end of the cylinder screwed out of the tube. Anyone have any ideas.

Look to see if there is a lock pin . you may need a heat wrench

A LOT OF PATIENCE!!!!!!! I have seen our mechanics at work actually heat the tube up and use a hammer and punch to drive the cap around until they can get it to turn with the wrench. Then clean everything thoroughly no dirt, no nothing in it. At that point the cap should thread back in by hand most of the way. They are working on tilt cylinders for fork lifts though...........

I made one by getting a CHEAP open end wrench bigger than the diameter of the cylinder and drilling a hole in each claw that would match the position on the cylinder. The holes will be tapped for threads to screw in SS bolts the same diameter as the holes in the cylinder so the holes you drill must be the correct size for the tap to accomodate the right size bolts. The bolt only needs to protrude less than 1/4 inch. That size wrench will give you the leverage you need.

Harbor freight has a pin spanner wrench. I just has some hydraulic tractr cylinders rebuilt. I asked them how they got the packing gland out. Answer was bit vice and bit pipewrench and cheater bar. however it would leave marks that could be dressed down for looks.

pipe wrench however will not take out the pin plug though.

Don't put the cylinder in a vice any where near the bore , good way to make it out of round .