I wonder if these two big Volvo's would fit under the hatches? ... didn't realize TAMD63s could have 370HP. I'd need to put in 2" shafts and replace all the running gear...but damn would that buggy fly!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-VOLVO ... 4324QQrdZ1
They're just down the road from me in Naples, FL and I'm thinkin' about offering $18k if they don't sell and would fit.
I wonder If these would fit in an F-36
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JuiceClark
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- Location: Fort Myers, FL
great engines! I really like the 63P series but I only see 1 in the picture.. does he have 2?
As far as fit goes, I have this engines little brother (41B) in my F32. It fits very nicely but the the 63p is 3" longer (which should pose no problem), 4" wider (which should pose no problem) BUT the killer is it's 7" taller -THAT MAY BE A PROBLEM. I only have about 3-4" clearance and I'm within 3/4" of the hull bottom with the oil pan. I don't think the F-36 has that much more engine room height than the F-32. if you measure from the top of your stingers to the undersside of the hatch, I can compare it mine and give you a good indication if it will fit.
BTW- an F36 with 750HP would absolutely fly (perhaps approaching 40 knots!)
As far as fit goes, I have this engines little brother (41B) in my F32. It fits very nicely but the the 63p is 3" longer (which should pose no problem), 4" wider (which should pose no problem) BUT the killer is it's 7" taller -THAT MAY BE A PROBLEM. I only have about 3-4" clearance and I'm within 3/4" of the hull bottom with the oil pan. I don't think the F-36 has that much more engine room height than the F-32. if you measure from the top of your stingers to the undersside of the hatch, I can compare it mine and give you a good indication if it will fit.
BTW- an F36 with 750HP would absolutely fly (perhaps approaching 40 knots!)
Nice!
Tony,
I thought you had an F32, or was I mistaken. 640HP would be great!
Lots to think about - but I love my 6BTas (which could theoretically be pumped up to 330HP each). I'm geting 30mph from 2x220HP now with 1:1 Velvet Drives and 17x20 bronze props.
Diesel torque is great - but I tend to move pretty fast at idle (6-8 knots).
If you can get both for $18k - you'd probably pay another $15-40k in upgrades and labor.
Do it - you'll love it!
I thought you had an F32, or was I mistaken. 640HP would be great!
Lots to think about - but I love my 6BTas (which could theoretically be pumped up to 330HP each). I'm geting 30mph from 2x220HP now with 1:1 Velvet Drives and 17x20 bronze props.
Diesel torque is great - but I tend to move pretty fast at idle (6-8 knots).
If you can get both for $18k - you'd probably pay another $15-40k in upgrades and labor.
Do it - you'll love it!
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
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RWS
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- Location: West Coast Florida
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Juice,
Your shaft is coming through the shaft logs at an angle. You can get a rough idea of this angle by using a protractor and a square from a reference like a stringer or maybe even the bottom of the boat. An easier way is to use a bubble level inclinometer and subtract the measured shaft angle from the measured deck angle. (I think that's how they did mine)
The farther forward of the shaft logs you are the closer that straight line is to the hatches.
You may be able to reduce the height problem somewhat with the use of a downangle transmission. A combination of the downangle trans and sliding the engines aft a few inches allowed me to overcome the height issue with the Yanmar 6 cylinder LP series in my 10 Meter International.
Also you may need to allow some extra height for fabricating a reinforcing system on top of your stringers. If the mounting system on the engines is narrow enough to completely fit between the stringers, then you may be able to customize the stringer reinforcements to allow the engine mounts to be lowered beneath the tops of the stringers, if you have sufficient clearance for the oil pan.
There are LOTS of considerations. Your first and MOST IMPORTANT step is to find a QUALIFIED, COMPETENT, EXPERT CRAFTSMAN INSTALLER who will be doing the job for you to evaluate everything before you make a commitment on engines.
Good Luck,
RWS
Your shaft is coming through the shaft logs at an angle. You can get a rough idea of this angle by using a protractor and a square from a reference like a stringer or maybe even the bottom of the boat. An easier way is to use a bubble level inclinometer and subtract the measured shaft angle from the measured deck angle. (I think that's how they did mine)
The farther forward of the shaft logs you are the closer that straight line is to the hatches.
You may be able to reduce the height problem somewhat with the use of a downangle transmission. A combination of the downangle trans and sliding the engines aft a few inches allowed me to overcome the height issue with the Yanmar 6 cylinder LP series in my 10 Meter International.
Also you may need to allow some extra height for fabricating a reinforcing system on top of your stringers. If the mounting system on the engines is narrow enough to completely fit between the stringers, then you may be able to customize the stringer reinforcements to allow the engine mounts to be lowered beneath the tops of the stringers, if you have sufficient clearance for the oil pan.
There are LOTS of considerations. Your first and MOST IMPORTANT step is to find a QUALIFIED, COMPETENT, EXPERT CRAFTSMAN INSTALLER who will be doing the job for you to evaluate everything before you make a commitment on engines.
Good Luck,
RWS
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JuiceClark
- Moderate User
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 10:20 am
- Location: Fort Myers, FL
2 for sale
There's two for sale with separate, but the same, ads on Ebay. I have an old longliner that worked for Viking for 20 years who would handle it. Good news is the angle of my F-36 shaft is very flat. But it doesn't matter anyway since the logs will have to be cut-out and I'll put 2" shafts in there. But I think they'll fit height-wise. If not I can raise the floor up to 2".
That boat will be a rocket ship. I'll have such big props that one could probably ski behind it at idle. However, mechanic said we can de-tune them down to 300hp for excellent economy and longevity.
My new gas tank will work with diesels...the stringers can be easily beefed-up. It doesn't seem like the extra stuff will be that bad. Shafts, logs, props, big struts, gauges, re-built trannies, etc...I bet I can do it all for 12k plus the motors if I'm cheap as usual. One unexpected thing, the boat will be about 1 1/2 inches lower in the water and I don't like the exhausts underwater in case they leak. However, if I raise them my big, fiberglass swim platform is in the way. Will have to think of something if he takes my low offer.
The guy we charter to fish in the keys is retiring and asked if we want to buy his boat. We're seeing him in late June for a tournament and it seems a better deal to just buy his monster boat for $90K instead of having that much invested in my F-36. Just don't know. Here's his boat...like a big F-36 on steroids. Like an F-50 if they had made one:
http://www.keywestcharterboats.com/forsale.htm
Tony in Fort Myers, FL
1981 F-36
That boat will be a rocket ship. I'll have such big props that one could probably ski behind it at idle. However, mechanic said we can de-tune them down to 300hp for excellent economy and longevity.
My new gas tank will work with diesels...the stringers can be easily beefed-up. It doesn't seem like the extra stuff will be that bad. Shafts, logs, props, big struts, gauges, re-built trannies, etc...I bet I can do it all for 12k plus the motors if I'm cheap as usual. One unexpected thing, the boat will be about 1 1/2 inches lower in the water and I don't like the exhausts underwater in case they leak. However, if I raise them my big, fiberglass swim platform is in the way. Will have to think of something if he takes my low offer.
The guy we charter to fish in the keys is retiring and asked if we want to buy his boat. We're seeing him in late June for a tournament and it seems a better deal to just buy his monster boat for $90K instead of having that much invested in my F-36. Just don't know. Here's his boat...like a big F-36 on steroids. Like an F-50 if they had made one:
http://www.keywestcharterboats.com/forsale.htm
Tony in Fort Myers, FL
1981 F-36
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RWS
- Ultimate User
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- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
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Tony,
Measure the distance between the bottom of the hull and the center of your existing prop. After you allow so much for cavatation and vibration that dimension will be the limiting factor on what size props you can use.
Make sure the props can be big enough for those engines !
Also, FYI we used 1/2" or 3/4" flat aluminum plate, as wide as the dtringers, throughbolted to the top of the stringers for reinforcement, spreading the engine mounting load out over a larger area of stringer.
We installed inspection plates into the hollow part of the stringers for access. The original gas engines were only lag bolted to the stringers, but with the tremendous torque of the diesel, the mounting was a real concern.
Sounds like you have the makings of a really sweet ride. Your cruising options will increase by virtue of your new speed and range. You will be shocked at what and where you can go and what you can do in less time and for less fuel.
If your engines are tired and the vessel is well built, has a good reputation (reasonable resale demand as compared to some other "production" boats) and is in good condition, diesels really do make sense.
It's not the total cost, it's the INCREMENTAL cost.
AT least that was MY justification.
Hope you get them !
RWS
Measure the distance between the bottom of the hull and the center of your existing prop. After you allow so much for cavatation and vibration that dimension will be the limiting factor on what size props you can use.
Make sure the props can be big enough for those engines !
Also, FYI we used 1/2" or 3/4" flat aluminum plate, as wide as the dtringers, throughbolted to the top of the stringers for reinforcement, spreading the engine mounting load out over a larger area of stringer.
We installed inspection plates into the hollow part of the stringers for access. The original gas engines were only lag bolted to the stringers, but with the tremendous torque of the diesel, the mounting was a real concern.
Sounds like you have the makings of a really sweet ride. Your cruising options will increase by virtue of your new speed and range. You will be shocked at what and where you can go and what you can do in less time and for less fuel.
If your engines are tired and the vessel is well built, has a good reputation (reasonable resale demand as compared to some other "production" boats) and is in good condition, diesels really do make sense.
It's not the total cost, it's the INCREMENTAL cost.
AT least that was MY justification.
Hope you get them !
RWS
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RWS
- Ultimate User
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- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
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Could you keep the exhausts underwater if you installed an antisiphon fitting on the side?
I enlarged my exisiting side below waterline exhausts to accomodate the diesels and as a safety precaution, added the antisiphon feature with an additional ABOVE WATER LINE exhaust with a high loop on both sides.
RWS
I enlarged my exisiting side below waterline exhausts to accomodate the diesels and as a safety precaution, added the antisiphon feature with an additional ABOVE WATER LINE exhaust with a high loop on both sides.
RWS
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JuiceClark
- Moderate User
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 10:20 am
- Location: Fort Myers, FL
Thanks
Thanks RWS,
I'll ask my friend about the anti-siphoning deal...unfamiliar with it.
About the stringers, that's the great thing about our engine rooms...they're so long. So, we can bolt six-foot long pieces of big, aluminum angle irons the length of all four stringers. It's cheap and pretty much unbendable if something weird happens. He said we go to the Goodyear store and buy long strips of rubber to put under the angles and take away vibrations.
Kinda funny about the props. Because I have 2.5/1 Velvets on there now, I spin a 22inch 18. With 1.5 to ones on the diesels, I can still use the 22s if they change the bite to ?....a lot more. Even with reconditioning the props, that saves at least $500.
I'll ask my friend about the anti-siphoning deal...unfamiliar with it.
About the stringers, that's the great thing about our engine rooms...they're so long. So, we can bolt six-foot long pieces of big, aluminum angle irons the length of all four stringers. It's cheap and pretty much unbendable if something weird happens. He said we go to the Goodyear store and buy long strips of rubber to put under the angles and take away vibrations.
Kinda funny about the props. Because I have 2.5/1 Velvets on there now, I spin a 22inch 18. With 1.5 to ones on the diesels, I can still use the 22s if they change the bite to ?....a lot more. Even with reconditioning the props, that saves at least $500.