Front windows on 26 ft. Trojan 76 model

wvernie · Post by **wvernie** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:46 pm

Has anyone had the pleasure of removing the front cabin windows on their boats. I was wondering what was behind all them screws and how the window laid in there. Are the screws thru the window itself? My windows are starting to get spider web cracks in them and they have started leaking.Are there any replacement windows left out there, and what about the rubber molding strips on the outside of the window.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:00 am

I replaced the front cabin windows in my '78 F-26 a few years ago. The frames were not leaking so I left them alone and only changed the Lexan itself. The problem was that the previous owner had installed the windows into the frames using regular clear silicone to hold them in place. No retainers and no rubber seals. Silicone is an excelent sealer but is "not" a good adhesive. So when I installed the new windows, I chose a glazing silicone which has good adhesive properties. It was a GE product and I think it was called "UltraGlaze SSG2000". This stuff is the only thing holding the window in the frame. It's solid and "no leaks".

One thing you should keep in mind is that heat and cold cause these windows to expand and contract, so when you fit them into the frames you should allow an 1/8" of clearance all the way around for this to happen without causing the window to "bow".

Hope This Helps
Paul
Cruise Control

jon_e_quest · Post by **jon_e_quest** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:00 pm

I've had the front windows out of my 1976 F-26. All those screws are fastened thru the fiberglass and into the one-piece teak frame surrounding the interior of the window opening. Removing the screws (completely!) only releases the teak frame from the inside... the extruded aluminum frame does not just let go of the cabin top as an adhesive sealer keeps it firmly in place. You can more easliy remove the plexiglas be running a thin metal blade betwee the plexiglas and the metal frame. When putting the plexiglas back in, make sure you use an adhesive that's compatible with plexiglass. And don't be shy about how much you use. I thought I used enough, but still have a slight leak in driving rain. Good Luck!

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Fri May 25, 2007 9:22 am

There's a great post here from someone who replaced the front windows on their f_26. I used it and mine came out POIFECT! If you want I can email you the instructions and the original guy's email address. You really should remove the entire window AND frame, because much of the leakage can come from around the outside perimeter of the frame. Don't worry, it's a good winter project, and the biggest cost is the Lexan or Polycarbonate. By the way, I have over 30 years experience in the silicone business, much of it in the construction trade, and all of it at GE. I can positively tell you that Ultraglaze IS a silicone sealant. The know silicone gets, is that too many people don't let it set up first before they tighten down things. For the best bond you need CLEAN surfaces...if dealing with aluminum or steel, that means sanding and washing the surface with acetone to get off all contamination. Good luck. Let me know if you want more information.

wvernie · Post by **wvernie** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 10:49 pm

I was wondering what would happen if I removed those screws from the outside. It makes good sense what you're saying. I got the post you was talking about and have been looking it over...I probably won't do anything until we pull it out of the water this season and get it in dry storage, however, it dosen't hurt to prepare yourself for the up coming task. Thanks for the input.

chumwithabottleofrum · Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:24 am

ernie-I may be the guy that had the post regarding the windows-I have notes on what I did and would be happy to send them to you-drop me an e-mail and I'll send them to you- h2oproof@hotmail.com. You have to remove the screws to take the window frames out. I I'm convinced that the only way to stop leaks and properly seal the frames is to remove them.

Mike McGaughey

wvernie · Post by **wvernie** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 9:36 am

You are the one who e-mailed me your notes and I appreciate it, once again thanks...wvernie

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:47 am

Hi Randy,

Can you explain to me why Ultraglaze SSG silicone has better holding properties than the regular GE silicone sealer. I'll explain the process I used to replace my front windows. These windows leaked from the day I baught the boat and they had nothing holding the window into the frame but clear silicone. I removed the plastic windows and replaced them with tinted plexiglass. I cleaned and painted the frames, scuffed the surface of the plexiglass that was to be bonded, laid a bead of regular GE silicone sealant into tha frame then set the new window into place. The window was then clamped onto place firmly enough to spread the silicone but not enough to squeeze it out. I then ran a fillet bead all around the perimeter of the window and then removed the tape. The job looked and worked great for about 3 months then started to leak. I found that I could push the plexiglass out of the silicone even though the silicone was still well bonded to the frame.

I then did a little research and found a manufacturer of hatches that uses Ulrtaglaze SSG durring assembly so I thaught I'd try it on my application. I repeated the same steps and noticed right away that this stuff had better grab. It's been 4 years now and no leaks.

So, what makes it better and what would be some other good aplications for it.

Thanks in advance.

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:55 am

Hi Paul

Ultraglaze is a silicone sealant designed specifically for commercial/architechtural glazing. It has adhesion promoters in it that are not used in "regular" silicone sealants. So, it would provide a much better bond to the plexi. Another consideration is this: When you cut the new plexi did you leave enough room for it to expand in the hot sun? Plexiglas and polycarbonate both have pretty high rates of expansion. If they are cut to fit flush with the frame they may expand away from the perimeter of the frame and break the seal. The Ultraglaze has a higher modulus and would flex better in this case, thereby keeping its seal.

Randy