1987 10 Meter, motor starts up, then dies out.

Unchained · Post by **Unchained** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:40 pm

My starboard motor cranks and fires up but then shuts back down after a few seconds. When I have the toggle switch in the start/crank position, I have about 10 volts showing at the coil which seems low to me but produces good spark. When I release the toggle after it starts, I notice the voltage at the coil drops to 1-2 volts and the engine dies. I replaced the ignition module a few weeks ago because it was burned out and replaced the coil too. I have the breakerless distributor setup. I couldnâ€™t find an original module so I went with the replacement unit which is a Pertronix Part# IG1589 and the coil was replaced by Sierra Part# 185434. One thing I have noticed is that my coil gets very hot after a short period of time. Could the problem be from a faulty alarm sensor in the circuit for either the water temp, gear oil temp or oil pressure? I jumpered a feed directly from the battery to the coil to see if that would make it keep running, but that did not work either. Any suggestions?

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:13 pm

I would check voltage's on other engine and compare readings. I think that engine would have points from new so they would have two wires run to the coil, one would be in the start position it would give the points 12 volts and the other would run through the balast resistor and cut the voltage down to around 9 volts so as not to burn the points. So if they did not remove the balast resistor when the electronic ignition was installed I would start there. I am not sure if the sensors you mentioned have the ability to shut down the engine but the neutral safety switch would, you could check voltage through these sensors or check continuity. I do not know if the switches are in a normaly closed positon that voltage passes through or if they close and pull the circuit to ground, test will verify. When you refer to the module do you meen the pick up assembly in the distributor ?

Unchained · Post by **Unchained** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:50 pm

I have the Prestolite breakerless distributor with no points. The part inside that I replaced was the ignition module. The Crusader number was CRU41090 which was not availble, so I put in the recommended replacement. There is no resistor in the circuit also. If the neutral safety switch was bad, I wouldn't be able to start it at all then, right? From the engine diagram, it looks like the path to ground on the circuit runs through those sensors which are in series, so they would have to be normally closed. I'll check some readings on the other engine too.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:56 pm

I would look in your starter switch circuit. Starts when power to starter is supplied but dies when released. Jumping around some components could give you a clue as to defect. If it starts obviously the ignition system is functioning but not keeping power to it.

koviak · Post by **koviak** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:56 pm

Pertronix specifies to use there coils with this set up, internal resistor type. Went thru the same thing last year with mine, ended up rebuilding my original Prestolites because of voltage issues with these units. I have (2) new units (complete distributors) with about 25hrs. use on them if anybody wants to buy them cheap.

akwalker · Post by **akwalker** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:35 pm

I had a similar problem with the Petronix unit. I went back to points and condenser and the boat runs like it should. Theres alot to be said for old school ignitions systems, IMO

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewtopic.php?t=5104

Scorpyon · Post by **Scorpyon** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:31 pm

Also, check the battery to see if its keeping a charge. the initial load on it when its cranking is high(current) if the battery is weakening you will draw off the charge on starting alone which wont support the ignition. Having said that, test your alternator.
When fully charged under a NO LOAD condition, it should read 13.8 to 14.5 voltsyes, even on your instrument panel)...leave it disconnected for 48-72 hours and check the voltage on it again...if it has dropped, then u have a weak battery acid or your plates are shorting and the battery may need replacing.
If after the 3 days, the battery has maintained its charged voltage, then u need to test the alternator.
The coil getting warm could also mean that one or more connections may need to be tightened...wires tend to heat up trying to pass high current through small connections.

This is just my 2 cents worth, but sometimes the simplest things cause the biggest headaches/mysteries, but u mentioned u only had 10 volts...that tells me 1-2 cells in ur battery is bad

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:40 am

Are you sure you guys have Pertronix and not Prestolite (or are they the same?)

I have Prestolite on my '88 mid cabin and replaced both coils with Sierra units 2 years ago and have not had a problem. I did replace one ignition module over the winter so I'd have a spare on board. They're available for around $90.

I can post the coil and module part #'s if that would help. If Pertronix is a different setup then probably not much help.

Bob

Koviak - just re-read your post, looks like you replaced the Prestolites with Pertronix at some point and then went back?

koviak · Post by **koviak** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:48 am

Bob, that is correct. Pertronics were too voltage sensative for my liking, at $125.00 a module for replacement also too expensive.

Scorpyon · Post by **Scorpyon** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 8:21 am

Guess i should have read the initial post more carefully. Feel like a complete idiot. I took it as 10 Vdc at the guage on panel...sorry my bad. Disregard my post ^^^ 3 up^^^.....unless of course you are having battery issues in whick case that post is relevant. lol

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:39 am

A couple of things; Sierra coil 18-5434 requires an external resistor yet you said you didn't have a ballast resistor in the circuit....so, wrong coil I'm afraid. Normally that would be the reason for your coil getting too hot however you say that you get minimal voltage to the coil, so it's little puzzling?? Sierra coil 18-5435 has an internal resistor, it or one of the high performance coils is what you should be using. The minimal voltage to the coil indicates a poor connection to me or a faulty component in the ignition circuit such as ignition switch as Larry mentioned. Check wiring at engine (including mains at battery and engine) and helm, battery condition (propper load test), engine harness plug for corrosion or pulled pin. Don't forget about the tach, it can short out internally and cause all kinds of ignition issues, disconnect it (signal wire at coil or back of tach) and try running the engine. If you suspect a faulty switch, jump it. You can also jump a wire from a known 12 volt source right to the coil for testing purposes. But first, get the right coil!!