Teak rub rail upkeep

Tri-Guy · Post by **Tri-Guy** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:10 pm

My rails are teak for certain, the biggest pain in the a$$ is removing the stainless trim. To do the job right to either clean or sand before putting on the sykkins(spelling) the trim must be removed. If any of you guys have a better more productive idea chime in.

pwollsch · Post by **pwollsch** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 4:26 pm

Dang!! No replies.... I have same issue, I am trying to figure out how I am going to do this work this fall when I pull the boat. Shrink wrap will make it impossible... But your question must be dealt with first....

Help!

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:35 pm

are you saying the screws are really tight in the wood? or hard to get to?
I cused mine as I disassembled the boat so bad my buddy laughed and took the wood home, Over drilled the holes to fit home decor plastic fitings. The same you would hang a heavy picture with,drywall sinkers? Cut them in half, sank them into the wood. Now I have easy replacable screw fittings. Was a good Idea I thought. Im not sure if this is what your talking about though...I may be misunderstanding.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:40 pm

also on the 74 F-25, Trojan put the rails up with set screws, then next to that is a through hull bolt, and over that is the trim screws. 112 X 3 is what I have, Plus they screwed the hull lower and upper togather every six inches and they all needed to be tighten up, well over 250 screws. Lots of work to rub rails but well worth the effort! us a hammer drill to remove your trim screws and a good new bit, they should come right out

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:26 pm

I do my rub rails 1-2 time a year with teak oil....I clean them with powered tide detergent w/beach. I make a runny paste and use a scrub brush. If I need to sand I use a multi-tool....it's a small sander with a triangular head, get very close to the hardware....then oil, let sit an hour (or 2 beers) wipe off and repeat next day. Whole job take about an hour of work time...1972 30' Sea Raider...............John

pwollsch · Post by **pwollsch** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:11 am

John - sounds like your idea is the way to go. How do you get to the underside of the rail - I am in the water with not so good of access to the rail for this work unless I am on-deck reaching over. Top side should be a sinch, but cannot see bottom side?

paul

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:48 pm

pwollsch wrote:How do you get to the underside of the rail - I am in the water with not so good of access to the rail for this work unless I am on-deck reaching over. Top side should be a sinch, but cannot see bottom side?
paul

I did mine by laying down on the dock and adjusting mooring lines to bring the rubrail alongside dock working from bow to stern on each side. i think it took three line positionings each side to complete.

carlywolf · Post by **carlywolf** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:41 pm

Speaking of rub rails, my F26 has metal rubrails Was teak rubrails an option? Or am i missing the teak that goes over the metal?

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:09 pm

I'm in a covered u-slip. I move the boat around so I can reach all around. I use an old sock saturated with oil to do the underside....I just do it by feel.......John

Mysterybay · Post by **Mysterybay** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:45 pm

Tri-Guy wrote:My rails are teak for certain, the biggest pain in the a$$ is removing the stainless trim. To do the job right to either clean or sand before putting on the sykkins(spelling) the trim must be removed. If any of you guys have a better more productive idea chime in.

Try power washing them first. Most times you can just refinish after that with no other work. My friend and I both have 36' tri-cabins and that's the procedure we use.

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Teak rub rail upkeep

Teak rub rail upkeep

Re: Teak rub rail upkeep