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Teak rub rail upkeep
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:10 pm
by Tri-Guy
My rails are teak for certain, the biggest pain in the a$$ is removing the stainless trim. To do the job right to either clean or sand before putting on the sykkins(spelling) the trim must be removed. If any of you guys have a better more productive idea chime in.

Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 4:26 pm
by pwollsch
Dang!! No replies.... I have same issue, I am trying to figure out how I am going to do this work this fall when I pull the boat. Shrink wrap will make it impossible... But your question must be dealt with first....
Help!

Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:35 pm
by jefflaw35
are you saying the screws are really tight in the wood? or hard to get to?
I cused mine as I disassembled the boat so bad my buddy laughed and took the wood home, Over drilled the holes to fit home decor plastic fitings. The same you would hang a heavy picture with,drywall sinkers? Cut them in half, sank them into the wood. Now I have easy replacable screw fittings. Was a good Idea I thought. Im not sure if this is what your talking about though...I may be misunderstanding.
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:40 pm
by jefflaw35
also on the 74 F-25, Trojan put the rails up with set screws, then next to that is a through hull bolt, and over that is the trim screws. 112 X 3 is what I have, Plus they screwed the hull lower and upper togather every six inches and they all needed to be tighten up, well over 250 screws. Lots of work to rub rails but well worth the effort! us a hammer drill to remove your trim screws and a good new bit, they should come right out
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:26 pm
by jddens
I do my rub rails 1-2 time a year with teak oil....I clean them with powered tide detergent w/beach. I make a runny paste and use a scrub brush. If I need to sand I use a multi-tool....it's a small sander with a triangular head, get very close to the hardware....then oil, let sit an hour (or 2 beers) wipe off and repeat next day. Whole job take about an hour of work time...1972 30' Sea Raider...............John
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:11 am
by pwollsch
John - sounds like your idea is the way to go. How do you get to the underside of the rail - I am in the water with not so good of access to the rail for this work unless I am on-deck reaching over. Top side should be a sinch, but cannot see bottom side?
paul
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:48 pm
by ready123
pwollsch wrote:How do you get to the underside of the rail - I am in the water with not so good of access to the rail for this work unless I am on-deck reaching over. Top side should be a sinch, but cannot see bottom side?
paul
I did mine by laying down on the dock and adjusting mooring lines to bring the rubrail alongside dock working from bow to stern on each side. i think it took three line positionings each side to complete.
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:41 pm
by carlywolf
Speaking of rub rails, my F26 has metal rubrails Was teak rubrails an option? Or am i missing the teak that goes over the metal?
Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:09 pm
by jddens
I'm in a covered u-slip. I move the boat around so I can reach all around. I use an old sock saturated with oil to do the underside....I just do it by feel.......John
Re: Teak rub rail upkeep
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:45 pm
by Mysterybay
Tri-Guy wrote:My rails are teak for certain, the biggest pain in the a$$ is removing the stainless trim. To do the job right to either clean or sand before putting on the sykkins(spelling) the trim must be removed. If any of you guys have a better more productive idea chime in.

Try power washing them first. Most times you can just refinish after that with no other work. My friend and I both have 36' tri-cabins and that's the procedure we use.