Bench test motor with fresh water system.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:13 pm

I know it's early but I received a gift today and I'm reading a lot! I want to and will bench test my new to me motor, I have fresh water system, do you think I will be able to build the complete system on a bench system so I can find any leaks or damage before the complete motor system is installed in the boat, the PO did leave 13 gallons of anti freeze behind.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:24 pm

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:29 pm

Most deffinately test the engine on the floor before you install it in the boat. The last thing you want is to go through the trouble of installing only to find something went wrong with the rebuild. Install all the hardware; manifolds, alternator etc etc and run it off a garden hose. Check the oil level first

boatsnbars · Post by **boatsnbars** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:38 pm

I did the same thing when I put motors in my Chris Craft. Get your hands on some old temp and oil pressure guages and hook them up so you can monitor everything. I used alligator clips to move them from engine to engine.

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:38 pm

hose or water pick up to your "newely rebuilt" raw water pump, fill fresh water up and crank it, you can do it for fresh or raw water systems.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:43 pm

so i would suppose that i need to order double gaskets for the parts that will be broke back down for boat install if there are any? I was kind of thinking the lighter the better. this motor has to be lifted almost 20 feet in the air to be reinstalled. I am going to start breaking her down in the boat tomorrow night to reduce weight. not that it matters, the engine removal system is going to be all steel and stought

larryeddington · Post by **larryeddington** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:03 pm

Iwould suggest you go to beacon or marineparts source.com as they are what once was chrysler marine. You will avoid a lot of chasing parts either way. I think you will need a complete gasket set, sans head gaskets and marine freeze plug set.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:06 pm

larryeddington wrote:Iwould suggest you go to beacon or marineparts source.com as they are what once was chrysler marine. You will avoid a lot of chasing parts either way. I think you will need a complete gasket set, sans head gaskets and marine freeze plug set.

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:08 pm

Reminds me of building late iron head Harley motors, ohhhhh I can't wait!!!! I love to make things that roar pretty again!!!!

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:13 pm

boatsnbars wrote:I did the same thing when I put motors in my Chris Craft. Get your hands on some old temp and oil pressure guages and hook them up so you can monitor everything. I used alligator clips to move them from engine to engine.

+1

I would also recommend getting an IR temp gun and shoot different spots on the engine and exhaust system to confirm acceptable temps and note any hot spots. And check timing is set to spec etc.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:22 pm

I would build it complete and install it . Lift it 20 feet ???? why ??

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:46 pm

prowlersfish wrote:I would build it complete and install it . Lift it 20 feet ???? why ??

gonna use gauges out of the boat, if they check out, or pull gauges from, bayliner, I have a good 200$ temp gun I use on my paint booth from ray tech. I have a decent timing gun, electronic and a mechanic that lives across the street that is giving me an engine stand. The 20ft sucks, my motor is at the helm. Boat is blocked real high for bottom work. It has to come up and down to transom wall. If I said that right. Add
Winch, chain and motor height we are close to 20 feet maybe 15 but 20 to be safe