International - radar arch leak

This forum is for comments and the exchange of information relating to Trojan Boats and boating. Please do not post used parts or boats For Sale in this area. For general, non-boating topics please use our "General Discussions" section.

Note: Negative or inflammatory postings will not be tolerated.

Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon

Post Reply
User avatar
BobCT
Active User
Posts: 1068
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:01 pm
Location: New Haven CT

International - radar arch leak

Post by BobCT »

Has anyone checked out the gap between the side window and radar arch?
I had a really bad leak last year into the mid cabin locker in the Stb side. It looked like the water was running down the wiring and into the locker right around where the dockside water fill can be seen.

There's a gap and some sort of filler between the glass and the arch that looks like it's from the factory. Well that's shrunken and I think it allows the water to run straight down into the bottom of the arch and into the boat. That might also explain why I'm getting wet balsa weeping out of the bottoms of each arch even though everything up top is sealed.

I can also see part of a screw if I pull on the window a little so I think the window frame and radar arch were fastened together at some point. Not sure what I'm going to do yet but figured I would see what you guys think.

I was thinking maybe 4200 pushed down to try and bond them together and then 4000 to fill the gap on each side. If I can mechanically fasten them together again, that will close the gap a little but probably not critical.
1988 10m mid cabin
User avatar
Mike Kulp
Moderate User
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:53 pm
Location: Upper Chesapeake Bay/Middle River
Contact:

Post by Mike Kulp »

I tightened up the radar mounting bolts and filled that gap with 4200 I did it over a period of time with several layers, Also check that your dock side water fitting is not leaking my did this year and I needed to replace it.
Mike 1986 10 Meter mid cabin
koviak
Moderate User
Posts: 242
Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:53 pm
Location: Pasadena Md

Post by koviak »

Bob, same issue on mine. I used 4200 to fill the gap last summer. Before that I used boatlife caulk, did not hold to good (shrinkage). Ditto on the fresh water inlet as Mike said mine also leaked.
Dennis
1989 10 Meter Mid-Cabin
User avatar
BobCT
Active User
Posts: 1068
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:01 pm
Location: New Haven CT

Post by BobCT »

ok, then maybe I'm onto something. Did you guys also get any leaks as a result? Dock side fill is new plus it's never used.

On a somewhat related topic, is there anyway to access the bottom 12" or so of the arch from inside the boat, maybe with coaming section removed?

I'm 90% certain this will stop the leak but that lower part of the balsa in the arch is wet and it'll probably drip all year. I'm trying to figure out a way that I can remove the wet wood w/o removing the arch all together. The inside of it is bone dry as far as I can see which is almost the entire thing EXCEPT that last bottom section.

If I can get to it from the backside, I can make an easy repair.


Bob
1988 10m mid cabin
koviak
Moderate User
Posts: 242
Joined: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:53 pm
Location: Pasadena Md

Post by koviak »

Bob, short of removing the arch I do not think you can access this bottom part. I removed all panels from the arch last season and resealed all hardware mounts and also sealed where the wiring passed thru to the mid cabin. The locker was so wet on mine I removed all the carpet, dried out and put in rubber flooring mat.
Dennis
1989 10 Meter Mid-Cabin
User avatar
Mike Kulp
Moderate User
Posts: 234
Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 4:53 pm
Location: Upper Chesapeake Bay/Middle River
Contact:

Post by Mike Kulp »

Dennis is correct you will have to remove the arch.
Mike 1986 10 Meter mid cabin
User avatar
RWS
Ultimate User
Posts: 2857
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
Location: West Coast Florida
Contact:

Post by RWS »

removal of the horizontal, sound insulated panels behind the coaming allows access to the arch bolts.

If you remove the arch, consider removing all the wood and stiffen her up with aluminum tubing bent to the curve of the arch and then fiberglassed into the arch

use two tubes, running in the leading edge and trailing edge and tie them together with amn aluminum plate at the base ot the arch

once glassed in that arch will be as stiff and secure as a concrete post

mine used to dance when we were in rough water.

no more

RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/

WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Post Reply