Fake Teak
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Fake Teak
i was browsing around and randomly stumbled onto this....
has any one tried using this stuff with any good results??
PlasDeck and Nuteak
http://www.plasteak.com/marine-teak-dec ... y-material
i was thinking of replacing the teak on my back deck since its beyong salvage for the most part... was just wondering if this is actually any good....
thanks
has any one tried using this stuff with any good results??
PlasDeck and Nuteak
http://www.plasteak.com/marine-teak-dec ... y-material
i was thinking of replacing the teak on my back deck since its beyong salvage for the most part... was just wondering if this is actually any good....
thanks
1974 F36 Tri-Cabin "Jorallyn"
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I just use the teak and holly on the floor in the head , looks great .
this what I used
http://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycl ... tin-finish
this what I used
http://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycl ... tin-finish
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

I looked at this stuff at the boat show over the last 2 years. I was considering putting this in my Pursuit.
My observations with this stuff-
-looks just like teak
-moisture resistant
-chemical resistant
-does not become slippery when wet
-Stain resistant
If you do manage to stain it, scuff it with 36 grit sand paper in the direction of the "grain" and all will become good with the world again.
From what I know about this stuff, its damn near bomb proof, but it is not structural. It needs a solid based floor to lay/adhere on.
I plan on installing it in the F-32
Tom
My observations with this stuff-
-looks just like teak
-moisture resistant
-chemical resistant
-does not become slippery when wet
-Stain resistant
If you do manage to stain it, scuff it with 36 grit sand paper in the direction of the "grain" and all will become good with the world again.
From what I know about this stuff, its damn near bomb proof, but it is not structural. It needs a solid based floor to lay/adhere on.
I plan on installing it in the F-32
Tom
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Re: Fake Teak
I did use it years ago when it first came out as a friend wanted it on his fiberglass swim platform.Vitaliy wrote:i was browsing around and randomly stumbled onto this....
has any one tried using this stuff with any good results??
PlasDeck and Nuteak
http://www.plasteak.com/marine-teak-dec ... y-material
i was thinking of replacing the teak on my back deck since its beyong salvage for the most part... was just wondering if this is actually any good....
thanks
It came out very nice and has held up well but the major draw back for him is how hot it gets in the sun. He says that you can't even walk on it in bare feet it is that hot.

Re: Fake Teak
Jerry wrote:I did use it years ago when it first came out as a friend wanted it on his fiberglass swim platform.Vitaliy wrote:i was browsing around and randomly stumbled onto this....
has any one tried using this stuff with any good results??
PlasDeck and Nuteak
http://www.plasteak.com/marine-teak-dec ... y-material
i was thinking of replacing the teak on my back deck since its beyong salvage for the most part... was just wondering if this is actually any good....
thanks
It came out very nice and has held up well but the major draw back for him is how hot it gets in the sun. He says that you can't even walk on it in bare feet it is that hot.
True, but so is real teak.
ok so from what i gather its fairly good and inexpensive alternative to real teak...
i have a bit of soft spots on the back deck of my tri, and the teak (original) isnt going to come off without breaking for me to replace the plywood that supports it.... so i now im seriously considering using PlasDeck..., and honestly at $40 SQ'F it doesn't sound that bad, considering you can get it precut to a template and its already treated and "varnished"
i have a bit of soft spots on the back deck of my tri, and the teak (original) isnt going to come off without breaking for me to replace the plywood that supports it.... so i now im seriously considering using PlasDeck..., and honestly at $40 SQ'F it doesn't sound that bad, considering you can get it precut to a template and its already treated and "varnished"
1974 F36 Tri-Cabin "Jorallyn"
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Re: Fake Teak
Just for the heck of it, at lunch today I went down to the club with my infrared temp gun and shot the fake teak platform and a real teak platform that was on the next boat over.jimbo36 wrote:Jerry wrote:I did use it years ago when it first came out as a friend wanted it on his fiberglass swim platform.Vitaliy wrote:i was browsing around and randomly stumbled onto this....
has any one tried using this stuff with any good results??
PlasDeck and Nuteak
http://www.plasteak.com/marine-teak-dec ... y-material
i was thinking of replacing the teak on my back deck since its beyong salvage for the most part... was just wondering if this is actually any good....
thanks
It came out very nice and has held up well but the major draw back for him is how hot it gets in the sun. He says that you can't even walk on it in bare feet it is that hot.
True, but so is real teak.
My car read 81 degrees on the way down. Both platforms were in direct sun but the sun does not feel real intense today.
The real teak read 93 degrees.
The not so real teak read 117 degrees .
I will have to try it again when it gets really hot out. I guess I see what he was talking about now.

you cant possibly think that synthetic wood (fairly much plastic) will have the same characteristics as real wood...
the real question is how good is this stuff in a practical outdoor environment... lets say i do buy it, and install it on my aft deck... will it actually look like real wood and behave in a manner thats expected out of a marine deck... such as scuffs or what not....
the real question is how good is this stuff in a practical outdoor environment... lets say i do buy it, and install it on my aft deck... will it actually look like real wood and behave in a manner thats expected out of a marine deck... such as scuffs or what not....
1974 F36 Tri-Cabin "Jorallyn"
Not sure if it would be that much cheaper. Particularly if you want it installed with bends and curves.Vitaliy wrote:ok so from what i gather its fairly good and inexpensive alternative to real teak...
i have a bit of soft spots on the back deck of my tri, and the teak (original) isnt going to come off without breaking for me to replace the plywood that supports it.... so i now im seriously considering using PlasDeck..., and honestly at $40 SQ'F it doesn't sound that bad, considering you can get it precut to a template and its already treated and "varnished"

well after using the calculator for flexteak it comes out to about $1000 for a 5 square meter area including the adhesive for DIY installation... after calling a few lumber yards for teak about the same for actual wood would run me about 1500+ not including all the prep workjimbo36 wrote:Not sure if it would be that much cheaper. Particularly if you want it installed with bends and curves.Vitaliy wrote:ok so from what i gather its fairly good and inexpensive alternative to real teak...
i have a bit of soft spots on the back deck of my tri, and the teak (original) isnt going to come off without breaking for me to replace the plywood that supports it.... so i now im seriously considering using PlasDeck..., and honestly at $40 SQ'F it doesn't sound that bad, considering you can get it precut to a template and its already treated and "varnished"
1974 F36 Tri-Cabin "Jorallyn"
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I know this may be out there but this is what I am using on the rear deck of my 36 trifly, currently I am using a similer product untill I am ready for the final install... http://www.duradeknorthwest.com/LearnDu ... radek.html
it is non slip, waterproof and comes on a variety of colours, it is used for decks on cottage roofs up north here in ontario for over 20 years, I think the cost is 5-10 dollars per square ft so for my boat it is about 300 dollars all in
it is non slip, waterproof and comes on a variety of colours, it is used for decks on cottage roofs up north here in ontario for over 20 years, I think the cost is 5-10 dollars per square ft so for my boat it is about 300 dollars all in
1976 Trojan 360 Flybridge needin a whole lotta luvin!
the question is how hard is it to install and how well does it stand up to the marine environmentrooferdave wrote:I know this may be out there but this is what I am using on the rear deck of my 36 trifly, currently I am using a similer product untill I am ready for the final install... http://www.duradeknorthwest.com/LearnDu ... radek.html
it is non slip, waterproof and comes on a variety of colours, it is used for decks on cottage roofs up north here in ontario for over 20 years, I think the cost is 5-10 dollars per square ft so for my boat it is about 300 dollars all in
1974 F36 Tri-Cabin "Jorallyn"
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actually it is pretty simple to install, the biggest hurdle is to fill and sand all the seams/ knots so they do not telegraph through the membrane. After that it is as simple as applying contact cement to the bottom of the membrane and the wood, let dry and then lay it in place. As to how it holds up it is made for decks and high foot traffic, it will hold very well in a marine enviroment
1976 Trojan 360 Flybridge needin a whole lotta luvin!