Trojan Boat Forum

Good Morning Trojan Forum:

Hopefully in about 72 hours, I'll be a proud owner of this boat: http://www.boattrader.com/listing/1989- ... -101673605. I did the survey Friday, sea trials failed, but I'm buying the captain's words. We think the boat sat for around 6 months and the 315's, as well as the brand new Kohler generator, carbs were all gunked up. All three carbs are soaking in kerosene as I type this in someone else's shop at someone else's dime. So, again, provided all 3 carburetors go back in, gen set lights off and provides 8 KW of power at doc, and she comes up on a plane ok, I'll buy here.

Lots of questions. First, my scenario. I'm recently separated, but wanted a new bigger boat for a while. To date, I have 5 years experience handling a 2004 Sea Ray 215 Weekender. So, this is a substantial increase in size and power. I've wanted to go up in sea ray cruisers until the separation. I planned to go up 8 feet, to avoid the 4' crawl in size. So, I was planning a 28'-30' Amberjack or another reasonable somewhat walk-around or light cruiser. I found this Trojan early in my search, but discounted it and looked at several other boats. I am intimidated by the size and handling. I think it'll be alright and I"m a good learner. For the price, I'm getting a hell of a boat and it's in great shape. The surveyor classified as "above average" for all aspects, except of course both engines died during the sea trial.

Looking through this site and a few others, I quickly learned I'm getting a boat with a great reputation and I'm super excited now.

So, the separation/liveaboard thing - I spent the first month on my cuddy cabin. It wasn't enough room, had no amenities, but I love the marina life. The idea of spending all of my time on this baby in a place I love is excellent. I don't know that I'll spend the rest of my life here; I have another house leased until Jan, so I may move off in 9 months. For now, I'm very excited. The only "things" I'm attached to are my tools and clothes. I also have pets that I share with the STBX and plan on moving my small parrot aboard and my dogs will visit often.

Questions:
Where do get spare parts? The helm needs rebuilt. The plastic around the gauges looks like crap, is brittle and just needs to go. The meters/gauges are mismatched and a couple need replaced. I'd like to get nice nickle/chrome plated gauges for all of them. I saw some stuff at West Marine yesterday, but the round meters probably won't fit in the square cut-outs for the existing indication.

Eisenglass looks great in the pic, but it's all actually somewhat deteriorated. The back for the door is broken in many places. The front center cracked in the lower area. All of the front and side panels are covered in a thick haze and some of it looks pitted. How essential is this as we're in March and my first trip will probably be May/June time frame. Get's hot here in Hampton Roads, so I don't need Eisenglass now.

The macerator pump made an odd sound and we weren't able to observe any suction. Obviously, I'm not discharging overboard since I don't plan to go offshore. I've never had one of these before. Do I need it for pump-outs? Also, do I want to consider replacing the existing system with a vacu-flush someday? Has that been done commonly? Expensive?

The hot water didn't fill, so we didn't check the brand new tank. I'm thinking there is a valve that we overlooked and I'm guessing one of the manuals I saw on the main screen can tell me where to find that valve. Just curios if there is a quick answer.

Since I will be spending a lot of time on-board, I plan to bring one of the HDTV's from the house. I'm thinking of a wall mount bracket from monoprice audio under the starboard side counter in the main salon. I'm thinking I'll take the 32" set. Has anyone had good success with inexpensive mounting techniques that kept the tv safe underway? Also, does the salt air (Chesapeake Bay) affect the TV on the inside of the salon?

So, the important questions, buried in the post: port side blower has been removed. Where do I find a replacement? The mounting hole is there, the wire chase empty, no leads, and the hose from the engine room is there. Just no blower. Also, advice on replacing the battery charger is appreciated. The original is corroded and looks terrible. It worked, but as a EE I need to replace that. So, I'm wondering if there is a particular brand anyone has had good or bad luck with. Also, practically speaking, I could put a 20 amp in, I believe, but I'm leaning towards the 3 bank 40 amp I saw at West Marine, just so I have options for the future. Any thoughts?

The surveryor mentioned a technique for covering the shaft logs so the sea spray inside the engine room would cease or mitigate. I'm going to end up sending a lot of time with a wire brush and blue marine engine paint. I'd like to do that once. Can someone post me a link to the technique or if it hasn't been posted, just tell me. It sounded easy when the surveyor described, but it would be great to read what he said from someone else. He mentioned something about the 2 bolts turning clockwise to tighten, removing, covering with a gasket/hose material, cinching with a hose clamp, and retightening the bolts, then torquing the hose clamps down.

Anything else a noob needs to know about this boat as either a live aboard or as a cruiser?

Greatly appreciate your help.

Welcome aboard. She looks great. Hope things work out.

Just a suggestion here; you may want to start a thread for each topic. Us older guys find it easier to digest and focus on that way

The first thing I would do is contact Beacon - our site sponsors. They are a wealth of info and great source for the old parts.

I'll touch on the charger for now; below is a link of the ProNautic 40 amp charger. What you must consider is that you simply can't swap out the older charger with one that has a much higher output as your current wiring may not be rated for the extra load. So count on replacing the charge wiring if you're going that route.
http://www.pmariner.com/productFeature. ... tNum=63140

bigralph wrote:.....The macerator pump made an odd sound and we weren't able to observe any suction....Do I need it for pump-outs? Also, do I want to consider replacing the existing system with a vacu-flush someday? Has that been done commonly? Expensive?

You don't need the macerator to work to be pumped out at a station. I suspect there is a "Y" valve on board and would use it to by-pass the overboard discharge so the macerator is out of the loop. If you are sure you're not going to use/need it, I would remove it and associated plumbing/hardware. Those things tend to breal down and leak from non-use eventually fill your new home will a less than desirable aroma I personally like the Vacuflush system, wish I had one, will some day. Yes it is expensive but worth it in my opinion. If you swap the system, check in here first for recommendations to do it right regarding plumbing, hardware etc. There are considerations that must be taken into account so the investment is trouble free and odour free!

[quote="bigralph"]....The hot water didn't fill, so we didn't check the brand new tank. I'm thinking there is a valve that we overlooked and I'm guessing one of the manuals I saw on the main screen can tell me where to find that valve. Just curios if there is a quick answer.../quote]

Sometimes by-pass valves are installed, very common up my way for winterizing purposes. On occasion, check valves are used. If the old hardware was used when the unit was replaced and it incorporated a check valve, it may have failed. You should also be aware that unless you open a hot water tap while filling the system/heater, the tank won't purge of air and fill up all the way.

bigralph wrote:...The surveryor mentioned a technique for covering the shaft logs so the sea spray inside the engine room would cease or mitigate...

I suspect you talking about preventing the drip from the shaft log from flingging off the shaft while underway and spraying the engine compartment? There are several home grown ways to do it but first I would tune the drip so there isn't an abnormal amount. Some dripping is normal as this is the way the log keeps lubricated/cooled. You may want to replace the shaft log packing if there is no record of when it was last replaced. To prevent fligging water everywhere, you can clamp with hose clamps a length of wire enforced exhaust hose on to the shaft tube. Cut a length long enough to go over the tube and hang over the end of the log by a few inches. Slice the hose down the middle so you can wrap it over the top of the tube and clamp it on. It only has to cover the top portion. Don't clamp in the middle of the tube as there is no backing there. Clamp at the ends where the existing clamps are now. You may have to switch the position of the existing clamp bolts so they are at the bottom. It should be noted that this would be an item on your regular check list to ensure periodically that these clamps are still tight after a few runs. Hope this makes sence.

Big D wrote:Welcome aboard. She looks great. Hope things work out.

Thanks. I'm really excited. Thank you for all of the advice.

the ProNautic 40 amp charger. ... can't swap out the older charger with one that has a much higher output as your current wiring may not be rated for the extra load. So count on replacing the charge wiring if you're going that route.

This is outstanding advice. Sorry - EE = Electrical Engineer and 10 years of Navy Nuclear Electrician experience...yes. not implicit in a web post, but will rerun appropriate cabling and new breaker for larger charger.

Big D wrote: preventing the drip from the shaft log from flingging off the shaft while underway and spraying the engine compartment?

Yes!!!

There are several home grown ways to do it but first I would tune the drip so there isn't an abnormal amount. Some dripping is normal as this is the way the log keeps lubricated/cooled. You may want to replace the shaft log packing if there is no record of when it was last replaced.

Is this difficult? Is there a best link for this? I'll google, but if you have a suggestion - it's appreciated.

To prevent fligging water everywhere, you can clamp with hose clamps a length of wire enforced exhaust hose on to the shaft tube. Cut a length long enough to go over the tube and hang over the end of the log by a few inches. Slice the hose down the middle so you can wrap it over the top of the tube and clamp it on. It only has to cover the top portion. Don't clamp in the middle of the tube as there is no backing there. Clamp at the ends where the existing clamps are now. You may have to switch the position of the existing clamp bolts so they are at the bottom. It should be noted that this would be an item on your regular check list to ensure periodically that these clamps are still tight after a few runs. Hope this makes sence.

Thank you. This sounds easier than loosening the shaft logs and pushing down, to cover with hose clamp.

bigralph wrote:....will rerun appropriate cabling and new breaker for larger charger....

I assume you know I am talking about the charge wires not the 110 volt supply to the charger as that wiring should be OK if wired right from factory. I'm asking this because you say you'll change the breaker and typically the charge lines are fused; one per output on most chargers save for some that are now fusing the negative line. You will also have to hook up a chasis ground for these. These units also come with a temp probe that hooks up to one of the banks. Monitoring temp while charging is a good feature. These are good "Smart" multi stage chargers, and should help minimize your battery maintenance. If the budget allows, look into getting the optional remote panel, not cheap but it's a good visual tool near the helm or electrical panel for observing the state your charger is in. Read the installation instructions carefully, they will save you time later like putting the unit further than ten feet away prevents you from hooking up the temp probe (10 ft cord), etc.

On the TV mounting part of your question I went to Best Buy and bought a regular wall mount bracket. I was able to use bolts and nuts to mount the bracket. I have a 23" tv and it rides fine.

Some good advice Big . Let me add a few things on some of the other issues . I believe that boat has been sitting for a while as it has been on the market for sometime (not uncommon these days) and the fact all 3 cards had to be pulled .You may have some fuel issues that can range from a filter issue to some water or even tank of very bad/old fuel . so there maybe more issues there .

Did you pull the boat and look at the bottom ? unless its clean it won't get on plane even when its running ok .( Asking because its been sitting )


I noticed the the helm steering pump was missing the photo I assume it was reinstalled for the sea trial ? why do you think it needs rebuilding ? If its just leaking then its not hard to reseal IF you know how ( lots of parts inside) . Seal kit should run 20-30 bucks . I just did mine this summer .

Who did the survey ?

Big D wrote:

bigralph wrote:....will rerun appropriate cabling and new breaker for larger charger....

I assume you know I am talking about the charge wires not the 110 volt supply to the charger ...Read the installation instructions carefully, they will save you time later like putting the unit further than ten feet away prevents you from hooking up the temp probe (10 ft cord), etc.

I feel like an idiot. You are exactly right. For some reason, I thought there was breaker on the dc panel for the charger input to each bank, but that wouldn't make sense.Bone headed thing for me to type. Thanks. I actually found a 20A 2 bank charger at Bass Pro this weekend that I couldn't pass up and installed it on my Cuddy Cabin. Wish I did that a long time ago. It was easy and it's nice to have the ability to use my DC lighting and music at the slip, which is the only place I have that boat in the winter. Anyway, based on that install, I don't think replacing the Trojan will be too tough. Thanks again.

jhalb wrote:On the TV mounting part of your question I went to Best Buy and bought a regular wall mount bracket. I was able to use bolts and nuts to mount the bracket. I have a 23" tv and it rides fine.

Thanks. I looked at one at Best Buy. I'm reluctant to drill a hole in a fiberglass wall. Did you mount it in the starboard wall, between the galley and the salon?

prowlersfish wrote: I believe that boat has been sitting for a while as it has been on the market for sometime (not uncommon these days) and the fact all 3 cards had to be pulled .You may have some fuel issues that can range from a filter issue to some water or even tank of very bad/old fuel . so there maybe more issues there .

The mechanic took a fuel sample from all 4 tanks. I should hear the results tomorrow. I'm not planning on spending any more money until someone can show that the problem was the fuel and it's been shocked, polished, or drained.

prowlersfish wrote: Did you pull the boat and look at the bottom ? unless its clean it won't get on plane even when its running ok .( Asking because its been sitting )

The broker sent divers down before the (failed) sea trial. We pulled the boat at Capps and it was beautiful. The paint is so new that there was a little painter's tape on the transom below the boot stripe, above the waterline mark. There was one approx 2.5" diameter blister port side, slightly forward, amid ship. Surveyor wasn't too concerned about it. No growth on any of the bottom. The zincs also had sales tags on them still.

prowlersfish wrote: I noticed the the helm steering pump was missing the photo I assume it was reinstalled for the sea trial ? why do you think it needs rebuilding ? If its just leaking then its not hard to reseal IF you know how ( lots of parts inside) . Seal kit should run 20-30 bucks . I just did mine this summer .

The brown plastic around the instruments is cracked and in general looks bad. The instruments are mismatched. The compass is out of fluid and I'll pull that and see if it can be fixed. The instruments are badly mismatched. The port and stbd engine rpm look different, so you can just glance down and quickly make an assessment about tac. So, mostly cosmetic, but some useability issue. Also, the 2 fuel tank indicators for the aft tanks ticked constantly during the demo. Suspect it was a ground, but the fact that both instruments did it was suspicious.

prowlersfish wrote: Who did the survey ?

Ed "Doc" Harbour. Very thorough. Hopefully, we'll meet up tomorrow for the sea trial.

Thanks for all the input.

It used to be at Bay Point Marina in Norfolk where I keep my F26. I've been on it once. Really nice inside. She did sit for a while so I would suspect the fuel is probably bad. I don't believe she was ever neglected, but she just wasn't used much in the last few years. From what I recall, Norm bought that boat in Florida and motored it back to Virginia.

vabeach1234 wrote:It used to be at Bay Point Marina in Norfolk where I keep my F26. I've been on it once. Really nice inside. She did sit for a while so I would suspect the fuel is probably bad. I don't believe she was ever neglected, but she just wasn't used much in the last few years. From what I recall, Norm bought that boat in Florida and motored it back to Virginia.

First - absolutely no disrespect to the current owner. She shows great care. It is pretty obvious that the things bugging me are from her sitting for a while, not "neglect." I think, seeing a few boats over the last couple of months, there's an obvious difference. The broker shared the original survey and I suspect that the current owner was planning on replacing the instruments, but just didn't get around to it.

Also, if you see her back at Bay Point, say later this week, stop by and say hello. Since I couldn't be 100% sure it was just fuel, I put her back in the water after the hull-out for the survey, which means I haven't waxed her yet, which means I haven't pulled the name off yet. You'll probably see "Proud Mary" for a few weeks, until she becomes "Invictus" - officially.

It's good to meet new folks at a marina.

Welcome Aboard and Congrats on your purchase!!

Any issue that you might have. . . . you will find an answer on this site!!!

jhalb wrote:On the TV mounting part of your question I went to Best Buy and bought a regular wall mount bracket. I was able to use bolts and nuts to mount the bracket. I have a 23" tv and it rides fine.
Thanks. I looked at one at Best Buy. I'm reluctant to drill a hole in a fiberglass wall. Did you mount it in the starboard wall, between the galley and the salon

I have a 10 Meter and I mounted the TV on the wall between the head and cabin.