wiring question re:inst batt. isolators on F-32 w/318,

radams · Post by **radams** » Thu Nov 08, 2007 4:54 pm

I want to install two seperate battery isolators in my f-32 with chrysler 318s with electronic controls. I have 2 deep cycle batts. for my house side and 2 cranking batteries for my engines. My alternators have been replaced with high output, internal regulated delco alternaters

I hope to charge the house batteries off of one engine and the cranking batteries off the other.

My question relates to where I wire the isolators in to the charging system. Any diagrams I have seen say simply to wire them from the alternator, however with the Chrysler electronic controls with the breakers etc I am not sure how to go about this as the wire from the alt. goes into a harness then I believe it goes to the breaker and then back into another harness.

I would appreciate any wisdom of those that have accomplished this or a possible internet site to get a schematic of what to do Thanks

radams · Post by **radams** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:10 am

Has anyone installed battery isolators on Chrsler marines?

Safari · Post by **Safari** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:05 am

Check out http://www.surepower.com and http://www.donrowe.com/battery_isolator ... ctions.pdf

You can call Surepower 800-845-6269

jav · Post by **jav** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:43 pm

Not sure I understand why you need an isolator. Aren't each bank of batteries isolated and charged by each respective engine now?

jordan · Post by **jordan** » Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:38 pm

Jav,
You're right on that. My 76 F32 is still stock and the batteries are factory isolated with a switch on the lower helm to jump the two together just in case one is dead.

Jim

radams · Post by **radams** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:45 am

THanks for the feedback------The factory JUMP solenoid you referred to was removed by the previous owner and then battery seperators that were for trucks were installed. These subsequently failed do to heat I think. Now I am hoping to put the two deep cell batteries off one alternator and the two engine batts off the other. I am thinking the only logical way to do that is with isolators so they charge indepently and dont feed back at all into each other

I will check the sites supplied as suggested.....

Am I going about this wrong???????

jav · Post by **jav** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:18 am

That's essentially how my boat is setup but without an isolater. I simply use battery selector switches on each side and they are isolated by default. The only reaosn I can see to implement an isolater is to insure that the 2 starting batteries are always charged (by the one alternator). I do that manually by running battery 1 on odd months and battery 2 on even months. The deep cycle batteries (I run 4 golf cart batteries) should be run in parralel all the time if they are to be used as starting batteries since a single true deep cycle can have issues sourcing starting current. I use position 2 on that sides selector switch as an emergency jumper to the other side (where I have 2 starting batteries, one always in isolated reserve).

radams · Post by **radams** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:19 pm

Yes,,that is basically why I want isolators, it would eliminate the need of switches. My deep cells which are for the house, one is just for my fridge which tends to draw it down fairly quickly compared to the other which supplies most everything else, they are also seperated to insure that I have power for bilge pumps, toilet etc,,even if my fridge battery is drawn down overenight. I should mention we frequently rely on these for weekends or longer either at a mooring or anchored in the bay. So I want to be able to run one engine to charge them up and not have switches to turn whether I am running or not. Might seem lazy but experinces have taught me that I will forget to switch them on occasion and end up with 2 very low batts overnight with no power for my bilge pump

Thanks

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:33 pm

Solar Panel will keep the bilge battery charged. I've been docked for almost 3 years now with no shore power - just solar panels! Works great!

jav · Post by **jav** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:05 pm

radams,

I think you will find most deep cell battery manufactures would not recommend using your batteries as you've described.

There's quite a bit of info posted online about this and I would recommend you do some reading on housebank battery systems and decide for yourself. Basically, the health and longevity of a deep cycle battery (or battery bank) can be closely tied to how it is used both in the charge and charge cycles. These types of batteries are not designed to supply high amperages in short periods like a starting or combination battery. The slower they are discharged, the longer they will last (as far getting their rated capacity in amp hours). Too fast or frequent discharge cycles can limit the batteries Ah capacity and reduce total available recharge cycles. The general recommendation is that foro best life, you do not discharge below 50% as this will accelerate mortality. All batteries within the same bank should be closely matched and certain battery types have different charging requirements than others (in a given bank they should all be of the same type and age) .

What your doing may work for you but it is likely not the way to get the most out of your batteries. As far as I know, the isolators will only help on the charge cycle and running one isolator from the engine you wish to employ as "charge" source should work but I use that term lightly- even if you run a 200 Amp Atlernator and 3 stage regulator, you will be hard pressed to get any substantial power absorption from idling or running the engine for short periods of time. Applying that across multiple batteries means you'd have to run the engine for hours. It sounds like you need to design a better house bank for how you use your boat - or you could just replace the batteries more frequently.