New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

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Cmount
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Location: Norwalk, CT

New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

Post by Cmount »

Very interesting events

So I am out on Sunday, anchoring and during the process the anchor does not hold...so I need to use the old windless to pull the anchor. It took me some time to see the pattern, but half of the time I hit the retrieve toggle switch for the anchor, the starboard engine dies...I did prove it out by starting from the lower station for the engines, but an interesting issue. Something is causing a major draw of power when I hit the switch. Good thing is I am changing out the whole windless, now sooner than later, but was wondering if anyone else has ever seen this. Also, same issue with the electric horn...blows fine from below, but once I start above, it does not work...

Do I need to run a new power feed to the bridge, maybe heavier gauge? I'm not sure just yet what feeds the bridge.
1987 Jersey Dawn
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Commissionpoint
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Re: New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

Post by Commissionpoint »

You likely have more than one issue going on there.

The DC feed to the bridge is in the Stbd. salon sliding door locker. You will see where the harness bundle heads up the channel between the two windows and comes out under the helm cabinet on the bridge where there are terminal strips for all of the bridge controls.

Lots of things could be happening here, and I don't envy you the task of figuring it out. Espescially if it involves crazy splices made by a PO. Its possible you have a short that is grounding out your ignition circuit when you hit the windlass control. Its possible that the windlass is toast, and its shorting out the whole DC circuit. (Do any of the switches or does the windlass itself get hot?) The horn thing could be totally unrelated. I'd start there. It will be easier to trace that one out.
1978 F-32 "Eclipse"
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1983 Correct Craft
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Cmount
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Re: New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

Post by Cmount »

I am actually leaning torward the windless...even the radio goes quiet for a quick second when I hit the windless switch...and that unit really struggles as it brings up the anchor, so the new profish 1000 will be going in this weekend hopefully...and then I will re-look at it all.

Thanks for the input, I will also look at the ground wires on the bridge and clean them up to make sure they have a good connection.

Any other thoughts are welcome...the more eyes the better.
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Commissionpoint
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Re: New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

Post by Commissionpoint »

Cmount wrote:Thanks for the input, I will also look at the ground wires on the bridge and clean them up to make sure they have a good connection.
Yeah. Look at the horn switches too. The one on the bridge espescially gets out in the weather a lot, and you said that was where you were having an issue.

No worries on the feedback. I like your '77. Its my favorite year for the F-32. If you ever want to trade lower station shift and throttle controls for the 1978 version because you like the updated look, you let me know. I'll give you an even trade on those, and dollar to dollar, you will come out on top. I like the old controls better than the new ones, but when my F-32 came along I had to take a '78 or not get the options I wanted in a boat that was well taken care of. Basically, I had to pull the trigger when I did, because it was the 4th one I looked at, and by FAR the best one. If they had only done the lower helm facelift and left the controls alone for a few more years.......
1978 F-32 "Eclipse"
Merc 305 SBC's
1.52:1 Borg Warners

1983 Correct Craft
Commander 351 Ford (PCM)
1:1 Borg Warner

There are 350 different varieties of shark, not counting loan or pool.
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Diverted Income
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Re: New starboard engine kill switch (not planned)

Post by Diverted Income »

Hmm. Pulling too much current from something with a loose or corroded connection. Windlass and ignition must be drawing power from same point. Could be positive side or negative. Run a temporary ground wire right to windlass and see if the problem goes away. If not run a temporary positive to feed the windlass. One of these should point you down the right path. Make sure to disconnect the corresponding positive or negative while using the "test" wire. Don't want to back feed or you will never figure it out.
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