How would I bring the F36 exterior back to like new?

[dfg4240]

Pretty soon she will be pulled out for the winter and I can work on her interior but the last owner never really cleaned her right.
I thought I could power wash her but at Barretts they are not allowed to use a power washer I am told.
anyway I was wondering if I had a professional do it and repaint the stripe and trim or recoated? Is this a long job I can do myself.
How many have done it and it looked good when finished. Even though the boat is a 78,when I drive around to the other side of the lot where the boat is docked -it is still a great looking boat and looks better than a lot of newer ones.This was my first season with this boat and I don't want to screw her up but I want to make her look like new again. I have a small compressor and sprayer and would like to try.
Thanks for any help at all.The pulpit and the platform need to be sanded and refinished but I guess now any sanding has to be done uder certain guides (DEC).
Would it be easier to remove both and bring them home to refinish?I can look up past posts about refinishing them.

[prowlersfish]

I would compound and wax the hull ( I like 3m restore myself ) and repaint the stripe

[aaronbocknek]

trojan boats, especially our vintage vessels, buff up very well. trojan used a lot of zinc in the gel coat, and they compound and wax/polish up almost like new. and they stay that way longer than some of the newer builds. even if they have not had that much exterior tlc, a good compound and wax does wonders.

[todd brinkerhoff]

Start with taking off all the old wax. You can find some liquid wax removers from Defender or Jamestown. Another option is soap and water and a green pad, but I prefer the wax removers. Then hit it with some cutting compound (3M) and a buffer. Then 2 coats of polish and 2 coats of wax (non liquid fleetwax is the best but a lot more work. It will come out awesome and last the longest)

[dfg4240]

ok- compound with a buffer and then wax and polish.
Will I get all those swirls from the buffer or will they go away with light buffing.
What kind of paint did they use on the stripe.
Sorry! I guess I can get that info at the marina thanks-My boat needs to be cleaned in fact it is begging me to get her clean again.
dfg4240

[Big D]

If she's been really neglected, hasn't been polished for years, and is chalky, she may turn chalky again shortly after you polish her. If she does, you'll need to wet sand her and do it all over again, but that's another thread. For this reason, when I come across a chalky hull that I don't know the history of, I'll just do the transom first then check it a couple of weeks later before doing the rest of the boat in case it all has to be sanded first. I agree with above, polish and wax before considering paint. If you're getting swirl marks and cutting into the gel, stop, you're doing something wrong and you could be making things worse.

[todd brinkerhoff]

ok- compound with a buffer and then wax and polish.
Will I get all those swirls from the buffer or will they go away with light buffing.
What kind of paint did they use on the stripe.
Sorry! I guess I can get that info at the marina thanks-My boat needs to be cleaned in fact it is begging me to get her clean again.
dfg4240

Variable angled polished is needed. It takes a little practice. Choose a small area. Put the compound on the hull. Take the pad of the polisher and SLOWLY begin to work the area while ALWYS moving the pad. As the haze of the compound begins to shine you can increase the speed of the polisher. Keep the pad clean from caking. Also keep a soft rag handy to wipe off any missed areas.

Good luck.

Oh, and as far as paint, you won't find much better than Algrip or Awlcraft 2000 two stage polyurethane. I've used Awlcraft with amazing results. You need an experienced painter though.

[hanybop]

heres a little advice, I meet a fellow boater this summer who buffed and polished boats for a living, he described to me that on boats that haven't been done in many years they would use kitchen scour pads and a bucket of water to remove stains and oxidation which is the white powder you see, then commence with the compounding down, polishing and then buff/wax if your inexperienced with buffing I suggest starting near the water line at the bow to practice in case you mess up, and purchase the right equipment, a $40 simoze buffer is not it, to do the job well you'll need to invest $500 or more for a good variable speed buffer various pads and compounds, I would resource these items from a automotive paint supply shop, and grab some Advil because it will involve hard work, those wipe on wipe off magical products don't work ever...just remember it all in the prep take your time and get some advice from the auto supply shop as they are very knowledgeable.
the other option is have it done professionally the first time, then it will be up to you to maintain it with a good polish and wax every year or so , you will still need to invest in some good tools, I have worked in the plastics industry for 30 years and have learned it 90% prep and 10% polishing to achieve that glass like finish.
Good luck and I hope this helps Paul

[lawyerdave71]

What kind of paint did they use on the stripe.

Its called a polyurethane (sp) topside paint - I usually use Pettit and it holds up for years.

You will need a good tape job as this paint is like water and loves to run. Do the stripe first and then the bottom paint job. Also this is the paint that works on bootstripe on flybridge if you have one.

I am sure others will weigh in but you need a good foam roller so you will not get air bubbles on the stripe - I think its a high density foam that is needed.

I do not recommend waxing the stripe after it is painted.

Bottom paint? Buy the best! - In fresh water I have been having problems with the paint and each year I keep buying a higher brand but it aint holding up

[Away On Busine$$]

Took my swim platform off last fall. Found a furniture makers with a 30" planner and had him remove 1/16" off top and bottom, then 1/16 off top twice, no more black stains on top, but minor on the bottom. Then sanded both sides with 100, 150 and 180 grit paper. After 5 coats of cetol natural it looks fantastic. This is a 1976 platform and shows all the natural grain and colour variations. Bow pulpit came off this week but will need to be replaced, so we will build a new one and finnish with the same steps.
Good luck!

[captainmaniac]

It depends on where you are and what the boat has been subjected to for the years as to what it will take to bring it back. I have a '79 that is kept in fresh water on the Great Lakes. Salt water in Florida will be a bit different...

All things being equal - the gel on the late 70's vintage Trojans can put up / keep up an awesome shine. Here's what my hull looked like at end of season this year (overcast, rainy, dreary day). I just love how much the fenders and the guy power washing the bottom still reflect in the hull after all these years!

Haulout 2013.jpg (151.34 KiB) Viewed 5762 times

I use Meguiar's products - their #45 Boat/RV Polish, and Premium Marine Wax. Both are applied/buffed by hand because I found I couldn't get consistent results with power buffers. Thing start off clean and gum up quickly, plus amount of product used at the start of a pad is way less than at the end of one... So doing it by hand and swapping rags every once in a while works best for me. Roughly 8 hours to polish and wax both sides, plus another 3-4 for the transom, plus more for superstructure.

Re the swim platform - I have taken mine apart and brought all the pieces home (never again!!) to refinish. Did this many years ago. Since then I have lightly sanded once or twice and applied another coat or two of Cetol.

Here are links to my 'wood finishes' gallery:
Wood Finish examples (part 1)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... f=1&t=3206

Wood Finish examples (part 2)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... =1&t=12738