oil leak

[LandVF36]

So, for the past 6 seasons, not a drip of oil from either engine. This year, a drip on the port side. I've always kept a set of 5 white painters trays under each engine. If there was a leak, I'd catch the drip AND know where it was coming from. Mid season I notices a small puddle in each of two trays toward the back of the engine. I've wiped down the valve cover gasket edges, intake manifold seams, around the distributor, around the oil pan, the fuel pump, bell housings and followed all the hoses I could reach.
This weekend, I hope to have time to put UV die in the oil and let it run and snoop around until till I see mist coming from somewhere... Anyone tried this before?
I'm hoping that is the oil lines to the oil cooler.

[prowlersfish]

The UV dye sould help you fnd the leak and trace it to the sorce . you won't see a mist. Before you add the dye check the engine with a UV light that way way you can see what glows already and won't throw you off.

[Stripermann2]

The UV dye sould help you fnd the leak and trace it to the sorce . you won't see a mist. Before you add the dye check the engine with a UV light that way way you can see what glows already and won't throw you off.

+1

You'll also need a UV light to inspect as well...I use dye all the time in finding leaks. Don't know which engines you have but on my Crusaders, I have a leak at the remote oil filter base o'ring, where it bolts to the block. I ordered and received new o'ring and both remote oil lines as well. Now I need to find time to replace them!

[lawyerdave71]

[quote=" I've always kept a set of 5 white painters trays under each engine.[/quote]

I am curious what prevents the pans from blowing or rolling around when the engines are running??

I should try this

[captainmaniac]

Instead of trays I use those gas and oil absorbent pads - sewn together by the wife to make a single large pad that covers the entire area under each engine/transmission. I use some zip-ties to make sure they don't shift. Whenever I see a dot I know exactly where it dripped from... but still have to figure out how it got to where it dripped from.

The pads get removed and replaced each year.

[LandVF36]

The pans, which are really just the flimsy paint tray disposable liners, stay put just fine. I line up 5 under each engine. There really isn't that much air moving around down there (no fan like in an auto). I suppose they might shift an 1" or so from time to time, but I've never had one go crazy down there.

I've got one shot left to find the leak this fall. Sat AM, I move the boat about 2mi from its slip, up-river, to the haul-out. I'm thinking of having my son drive while I inspect with the black-light under-way. I'll let everyone know what I find. I hope its simple.

[LandVF36]

We now bring you a short 7 month intermission in this thread to let mother nature bring ice, wind, and snow so the mystery has to wait. I went to the auto-parts store to get dye on Sat, and they were out. It was going to be an hour drive back up to St Paul, so I decided to let it be until next spring. The "Light and Variable" is now on land, blocked up, and wrapped in giant tarp until May 2014.

[larryeddington]

Thought I had oil leak on port engine, oil in bilge, alas was not a leak per say it was engine blowby forcing oil out the crankcase vent to the spark arrestor. Engine pucking oil on to intake manifold and running, you know where. So now black oil on top of bilge water towards bow. Bought absorbent pads from Uline that are supposed to hold 25 gallons of oil and not absorb water. Will let everyone know how they work when I try them in a few weeks. Am taking boat home to install my two new engines as well as plastic water tanks etc.

[larryeddington]

Well applied some pads where the oil had pooled in bow area. No water apparently my repacking stuffing boxes worked. However the port engine pukes oil out valve cover breather. Will pull boat in a month or two and put new engines in. Will only use port engine to idle and aide maneuvering to hoist.

BTW you northerners eat your heart out, was 82 degree at the boat today.

[Big D]

I hate you

[rickalan35]

We all hate you. Going down the 30 F here tonight.

[larryeddington]

I wish both my engines were up and I would take advantage of the weather, will eventually get cold here, eventuallllllly.

[comodave]

The oil floating all the way forward to the bow on top of the bilge water is why I closed the limber hole at the front of the engine room. Now any oil leaking will remain in the engine room and contain the mess somewhat. My boat had sludge all the way forward to the vee berth area when I bought it. After many hours of cleaning and two coats of white bilge paint, I want the area to stay clean. It will also contain any water from the stuffing boxes in the engine room.

[Bob Giaier]

Must be an oil leak epidemic. I cleaned and painted my bilge last winter and had no leaks until she was on the hard. I think the rear main seal on the port engine is leaking (velvet drive end).

Has anyone ever had any success with engine additives to soften seals ? I am really reluctant to try that kind of thing on this boat, looking at how difficult it is to do major engine work if it makes things worse.

[Big D]

Must be an oil leak epidemic. I cleaned and painted my bilge last winter and had no leaks until she was on the hard. I think the rear main seal on the port engine is leaking (velvet drive end).

Has anyone ever had any success with engine additives to soften seals ? I am really reluctant to try that kind of thing on this boat, looking at how difficult it is to do major engine work if it makes things worse.

Before you do anything, ensure that you're actually running a proper oil level. Don't just go by the dip stick. Make sure it is the OEM dipstick and hasn't been modified. Ensure the tube is routed properly and that the tube is all the way in. Look up the engine specs for proper quantity including the oil filter. Do a visual inspection at the top rear of the engine and ensure there is no leak at the oil pressure sender. Also, consider that simply because there is oil dripping in a particular spot, doesn't mean the leak is right above there, it may be originating elsewhere like rocker covers and traveling along wires or hoses to the back of the block giving the impression that the leak is there. You may have a leaking oil gallery plug on the back of the block. Also ensure that you're using the proper grade oil and that it is not being diluted by fuel. Can't tell you how many times I've seen engines removed because the thought was a failed rear main seal. It's not uncommon for them to leak but a few simple checks may catch something that will still be there after you go through all the trouble to replace the seal.