rudder removal
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
rudder removal
this thing is a beast. I want it all out. is rudder and shaft one peice? all is loose. maybe corrosion keeping it locked up
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- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1876
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:08 pm
- Location: Canton, TX Boat on TEXOMA
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- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1876
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:08 pm
- Location: Canton, TX Boat on TEXOMA
You probably tried but you you might grind a flat on both sides so you would have a clean surface to use a drift punch on also heat could be applied then punch it. If you gonna try and drill stainless get you some cobalt bits. I have a set and they cut stainless like hot butter. 

Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
OK, just so you know, when I asked John if he remembered this project, he said, "That @#$%^& thing>?!" So yes. Couple of key points:
Unless you have a photographic memory, mark the orientation of the rudder post in the bushing, both vertically and horizontally. The hole is not centered in either plane. (This is a hindsight recommendation...)
Use a punch to remove the roll pin - it must the the exact size. It will almost look too big for the hole. If you use the punch that you think is the right size, the roll pin will break. We know this from experience.
The pin doesn't slide easily - there's lots of strain and weight on it. You may want to support the rudder from below and jack it up very slightly.
"Don't be shy with the hammer! Beat the crap out of it!" Try hammering from both sides.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Unless you have a photographic memory, mark the orientation of the rudder post in the bushing, both vertically and horizontally. The hole is not centered in either plane. (This is a hindsight recommendation...)
Use a punch to remove the roll pin - it must the the exact size. It will almost look too big for the hole. If you use the punch that you think is the right size, the roll pin will break. We know this from experience.
The pin doesn't slide easily - there's lots of strain and weight on it. You may want to support the rudder from below and jack it up very slightly.
"Don't be shy with the hammer! Beat the crap out of it!" Try hammering from both sides.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
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- Ultimate User
- Posts: 1876
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:08 pm
- Location: Canton, TX Boat on TEXOMA
F#%%G p$&%#% J^@ (#*( F&^#$%^ A ^^%#$, GRRRRRRRRR THIS IS UNREAL!!! Ive done it all! jacked the rudder for pressure, grinded edges, lubed with everything you can buy including KY jelly
. 5 cobolt bits, exact size punch, smaller punch, my poor knuckels punch, Torch till the boat cought on fire, punched with back support, drilled while hot with lube. drilled while cold with no lube and lube. 3 hours worth of attempts and im 1/4 of an inch in maybe. this has to be the most over kill design I have ever seen besides a wheel lock lug key that the owner threw the key away to! and yes i maked the spots to

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- Moderate User
- Posts: 384
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:24 am
- Location: toronto canada
something is not right, I had a leak around my rudders and against my better judgement we pulled both mine the day before launch, I must admit the topic of yours came up as we were doing it, but we had them both out and back in less than an hour, mine is a 76 trifly
1976 Trojan 360 Flybridge needin a whole lotta luvin!